I started with the foam and rough contoured it with a rasp and my #11 blade (photo 1) The creek was rough cut into the foam. I then sculpted in the terrain base, overhanging creek banks, rock and roc

Paint is from SWSMs original MSP Series Paint Set "Pale Buckskin". Board ends were detailed with a #11 blade and then hit with AI and pigments. Roof is corrugated "metal" and I went with the paper t

In the first picture the right hand window is a little out of alinement. But it was worse. Glass over hung the edge of the frame. I used a diamond dust file to sand off the excess glass. On the se

I wanted my brick forge to have a well used and abused appearance to go along with the rest of the blacksmith shop I'm working on. The following illustration (photo 2) is the results of re-scribing t

and oblong recess larger than the knot with my #11 blade. I then carve the toothpick end so it is oblong and glue it into a hole in the center of the carved recess and cut flush on the backside. Sev

to the tape. The tape was then trimmed with #11 blade very close to the decal. When the decal paper was removed I ended up with this...

Thanks Joel, Karl, Art, and Ken. Art I did use Karls method of holding the wood down with the chopper blade and breaking the wood upward. I have goon back and used the back of a #11 blade to scrape

work them once glued down and cured a bit with a #11 blade....or an pointy dental tool to "rough" up the edges....then finish with a brass brush a bit more to texture the shingle's further...remember

in faux joints....light pressure with a dull #11 blade will look like two joined boards or beams...just don't score too deep. This gives you a chance to brace the joint with bolts and gussets....the

stove pipe at the angle by carving it in with a #11blade, wood floor just visible inside the cracked open door, rear covered area and electrical service connection (viewable in subsequent images). A

The next item to add is the Sawdust Collector. This is a cast metal item that was cleaned up with a combination of #11 blade, file and brass brush mounted in my Proxxon rotary tool.

Thanks Karl....might booger up a board or six....but I don't want to do all that work...then have a pallet, shelf or tank covering it up...I also add some additional graining later with a #11 blade...

in for a minute was able to slip the end of a #11 blade under it.

Here is a "toothpick" knot under construction. Rather than using a #11 blade to drill a hole, I used a small drill bit in a pin vise to make a small hole first, and then inserted the toothpick. I mixe

I score the paint by running a #11 blade with the grain of the wood. Multiple scores where I want a lot of paint gone, few scores everywhere else. Mist with water and wait 30 seconds or so. Then t

NO clean up! I'm serious, I have not picked up my #11 blade once when detailing these parts. As an example, the various highly detailed bottles come on a sprue attached at the bottom of the bottles.

Kev….just remember Bulleit on the rocks and #11 knife blade don’t work well in the same sentence

along the board ends. Previously I would use my #11 blade to split and wether the ends. I didn't care for the result as the blade was so sharp the cracks didn't show up and if I tilted the blade it

I experimented with imparting a wood grain into the laser cut window frames. The material has a grain that goes perpendicular to the long measure of the frame. I went over the frame with my #11 blad

The "peel" is created by scrapping away the paint with a #11 blade. I like it as it is completely controllable. Leave it where you want it, scrape it away where you don't.