Steve…I think you’re referring to the boiler/welding shop. The stripwood was “primed” with a/c 408.3/408.5/234.3…then drybrushed with Reaper SW Bone White then with a #11 blade and scratch brush
Did you drill out from the bottom or the back? If you drilled out from the back, you can use your #11 blade to scrape away material and enlarge the hole towards the top. Not as easy as drilling, but
Did you drill out from the bottom or the back? If you drilled out from the back, you can use your #11 blade to scrape away material and enlarge the hole towards the top. Not as easy as drilling, but
at the floor pretty hard with the wire brush and #11 blade, going after a rotted appearance, and I like how that turned out. I had to shorten a few boards vertically to get everything to fit, which
so i ended up drawing a level line across a sheet of thin chipboard and tracing the letters on the damn chipboard, and then cutting them out with a #11. this took me two hours.
kind of like karl, i'll use a #11 stainless steel (i buy stainless blades due to the hardness of stainless, i think it's worth the extra money) xacto to cut round tube, roll the tube back and forth un
Rick, Looks really good. Think you achieved a very natural peel. The only thing I would do if it were mine is take my #11 and run it down each grain line on the vertical door frames. There are a fe
for missed spots and re-do them. Gently run #11 blade down each space between shingles in case it got closed up by the gunk. It's about like sand paper at this point. If I had to guess, I'd say ab
Just a word on how I did the stencil. I had not quite the results that I wanted with the stippling brush...it worked great on the large Blacksmith stencil....but I think the more fragile smaller separ
For the round signs, I use a very sharp pair of Fiskar scissors. First, with an a #11 X-Acto blade I cut the sign out from the sheet in a square. This gives me something to hold while I cut. I then cu
I think Mountaingoat is on the right track. I found some pics on Railroad Line but no information on how it was made. It looks like he used square brass tubing for a handle. A stack of #11 blades so
My thoughts about the "#11 Exacto blade" tool. I wonder if the grain lines would be really fine and tend to disappear after we treated the scale lumber wit A & I due to minor swelling.
I finally found what you are looking for. It is known as the wood wrecker. It is made with either 5 or 6 #11 Exacto blades press fit into the end of a K&S 3/32 X 3/8 brass tube. It is shown in a worki
somewhere on the forum, buried mid thread, someone describes making a scratching tool for detailing wood out of used #11 blades and a piece of tubing. if anyone remembers it and knows where it is, pl
somewhere on this forum someone explained how to utilize old #11 blades by inserting them into a piece of tubing and making a scratching tool out of it, and i have a bunch of used #11 blades and would
Thanks Robert...right you are my friend, that's how I do it as well. I use thin tissue paper though not Kleenex type as that's too fargile for how I work it, more like the kind used for gift wrapping
like old heavy weathered paint. I then take my #11 blade a pick and scrape off the paint as I wish. More paint removed the more weathered it appears. Here's an almost finished wall utilizing this