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  • Hello all. I have been working on the windows and doors for Scotia. The windows gave me a chance to do something else I have not done before, but have been wanting to do. I used real glass in them. The glass did not haze over like the included acetate would, so I sprayed the glass with Dull Coat and then dusted on some grey chalk.This provided some frosting but in a splotchy manner. I don't think they look bad, but feel free to weigh in on them.

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    And here are the two that needed boarding up

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    And now........They say "third time's charm", but that's just what "they" say. Here are shots of the first floor. Please critique or enjoy which ever is your pleasure.

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    Thanks for being so patient with me.

    Dave
  • Ok, evidently I messed up on the downloads. Again, here are the walls with windows and doors

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  • Dave,
    The stonework looks like it is under control and the brickwork has come alive. Isn't it great to receive such good advice!
    John
  • John, glad you stopped by. Thanks for the nice words. You bet it's nice such good advice. In fact I feel it is the best expert advice.

    Dave
  • Here are a couple of pics of the first completed (?) casting. Comments, critique, hints?

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    Dave
  • edited January 2014
    Hey David I think your concrete foundation looks great for the the board walkway I would suggest to take a look at this thread: http://sierrawestscalemodels.com/vanforum/discussion/344/advanced-painting-and-weathering-of-details-with-kevin-oneill.#Item_15 the thread is a step by step tutorial by Kevin Oneil how to paint and detail castings.
    I achieved good results as it comes to painting wood, benches and other castings.

    as I mentioned on RRforums it still is a good start and I follow your build

    DJ
    I think if you follow this link as a guide you will do just find as I mention before

    Try to tune down the bright colors a bit with some chalk rust colors

    still follow

    DJ

  • edited January 2014
    Good start on the castings David, Good variations in the colours and definition between the items. The bright colours are OK at this point.

    One trick I use on those banded drums is to sharpen a toothpick and use the point to remove any stray coloured paint from the white paint, it should scrape right off leaving you a nice clean line.

    I also keep the toothpick handy while painting all my details incase one colour goes astray where I don't want it, easy to scrape a little mishap off.

    Then it's on to the next steps.

    Kevins tutorial is indeed great, I would advise anyone to get comfortable and confident with some basics first though.

    Karl.A
  • DJ, Kevin, thanks guys. I have Kevin's thread bookmarked and have read it several times. It is very good, I always get something out of it when I read it, my problem seems to be many a slip twixt reading and doing. I have really been studying this casting detailing a lot, i.e. Brett's instructions from this kit and a couple of others on the shelf, Dave Revlia's dvd, and, of course, Kevin's tutorial. I hope to "get it" soon. I thought that perhaps I was over studying/thinking and went ahead and started on what I consider to be the toughest casting in the kit, not that all the rest are simple. I had quite a problem trying to figure out what all the "stuff" was and just guessed at a lot of it. Thanks for the comments/suggestions.

    Kevin, you have such great suggestions that it is no wonder you turn out the beautiful work you do.I have often thought that I have handicapped myself by modeling in HO. The bigger scale would be easier for me to see and probably work with, but I just have way too much invested in HO. Guess I shall "suffer" on. Thanks for info on toothpick, and the "OK" on the bright colors. I did try to dull them down with a good dusting of grey chalk. Should I go back over it with some burnt umber?

    Thanks guys

    Dave
  • I'm back to update Scotia. I know it's been awhile, but I haven't been idle, just been re-doing castings following Karls' magnificent tutorial. I only wish it had been in video format. Easiest for me to follow. But I learned a lot and tried to put it to work for me. These pics are of the re-do on the shelf I posted earlier. Critique please.
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  • edited February 2014
    HOLY COW that's a big HO casting, I see you have the close up shot perfected.

    Firstly, the first two pics look harsh and 'sharp', especially the second, due to the lighting I'm guessing, which makes them hard to evaluate.

    The third pic however gives, (I assume), a more real to life look at the casting?
    In the third pic the colours are much more muted, specifically the sacks at the bottom. Using this view as 'real' I would say that things are coming along nicely.

    What are your thoughts on where you are at with this casting, you didn't say and its hard to critique or advise (if needed) without knowing.
    Do you think its finished and are asking for opinions. Is it at the midway point and you want to show where you are before proceeding. Have you just begun and have much more planned.
    Obviously two of these are completely wrong statements, however, if we (as the viewer) know where you think you are at, it greatly effects the responses we can give.

    Karl.A

  • Karl, I am feeling like it is finished. I should have said, sorry. That is why I asked for critique. Should I be looking at more?

    Dave
  • Maybe some sand chalk dusted on top, especially on top of the cabinet. To look like settled dust over everything.
  • Good thought Alan, a colour I like to use for a dust layer is 408.9. It gives a very nice dusty look.

    The only thing I would suggest David is some subtle toning down in a couple of areas. The red and green at the top of the cabinet dusted with a little dry 408.3 or 408.5 will dull them and blend them significantly. Also a little dry rust coloured chalk on the two barrels down at the bottom on the rust spots will take away the harshness.

    The casting looks to be at the "stage two" phase. Adding the dry chalk subtlety, blending and toning from "stage three" as described above will finish it off nicely.

    As I said in my previous post, good work so far, it just needs that final touch.

    Karl.A
  • Alan, Karl, thanks. Those suggestions are what I was looking for. I see what y'all are talking about. Will post some pics of crates and barrels later today.

    Dave
  • edited February 2014
    Be subtle and build up slowly would be my advice, easy to add a little more later if needed. Looking forward to the pics.

    Karl.A
  • Your work is very instructional to me Dave and I am now following your castings with interest. At a point soon I plan to branch off and apply what I am seeing from you and Karl. Please continue heavy with your pictures.
    Respectfully,
    John
  • John, those are very nice words and I thank you for them. I'm afraid that at this point the only instruction you are getting from me is "what not to do". LOL. Thank you.

    Here are the pics I promised. Please be kind about the upside down barrel. Did not notice it "til I was editing th pics.

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    Thanks for looking.

    Dave
  • Not bad in my opinion, the chalk to tone don everything worked great. They have a much more natural look.
  • edited February 2014
    Superb Dave, really nice work all around.
    I keep looking back to the red drum with the white end under the bench on your last pic, nice!
    In fact all of the drums are very well done, great crisp straight lines between the colours, that makes a big difference.

    I hope you are pleased with the results.

    Karl.A
  • forgot to mention, the lighting in these pics is so much better, A much more "true to life" feel in the pictures.

    Karl.A
  • Coors2u, Karl, Thank you guys. I can breath easier now. I was quite happy with them but wasn't sure how they would stack up with the "pros". With these comments I feel much better and have much more confidence to go forward with the rest of the castings and on toward the end of the build. Karl, I figured out what the problem was with the lighting, and fixed it.

    Thanks guys,

    Dave
  • Hey Dave, I agree with masses! You look like you're getting a nice "feel" for the subtile coloring and overall "nothing jumps out" weathering. The drum Karl mentioned is red not RED, and the green barrels are not GREEN but still colorful. Just a thought...little heavy on the rusting and junk on the tanks and maybe try painting just the valve cover caps grey and then dull with darker chalks, scratch and rust/dust the tanks like you did the barrels. Nicely done...gets really fun when you get that ah,ha moment and I think you got that! Ken
  • Nicely done on the "tone down". Congratulations.
  • great job, you get it now! subtle nice tones, clean lines, very well done...
  • very nice Dave, the tone down is well done!

    Scott
  • Ken, you're right about that AHA moment. I does become fun instead of work.

    Alan, thank you for keeping an eye on me. Appreciate it.

    Brett, thanks for weighing in. I do so want to do your model honor. I'm liking Scotia more and more as I work on it. Got the chain link on the fence today. That was an experience, since CA and I aren't on the best of terms. Damn, I'm messy.

    Scott, thanks for noticing the tone down. I believe that part was gave me that "AHA" moment.

    Appreciate every one on this forum. The info is out there and y'all don't mind sharing.

    Dave
  • Two groups of people. You in the group that does try.
  • Meaning ...... WELL DONE!
  • Alan, I appreciate that.

    Dave
  • Dave,

    It looks like you are on a roll. Congratulations. To follow in your foot steps and Karl's tutorial, I put the base coat of paint on 99% of my resin castings today and plan to follow through using Karl & you for a tutorial. Please continue your posts.

    Respectfully,
    John
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