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The Line Side Shed, Building a SW kit without a SW kit.

I found this a nice kit ( they all are), not to big, to work on after the mega Sawmill Project. The only problem, the kit isn't around anymore and so far not on ebay since as long as I am searching for it. So, what does one do in that case....

Build it anyway. It didn't look to complicated so I was able to figure out what was the frame of the walls, or at least what could have been the design of them. I used the photos from the website to get going. ( just personal use !!!)

What the castings are concerned, I have the casting sets 1 and 2 which will provide enough to fill this one. Also leftovers from all the kits build already. There are so many in all the kits. They will come in handy now.

For the rest I'll improvise a bit , but it will be a nice build. I will probably change a bit here and there and give it a personal touch.

So, of we go... :)

For now, I made all the wall frames...

to be continued..

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Comments

  • Back to the basics. Build it one stick at a time. A great start Robert. This will be fun to follow since you don't have the kit, only photos for reference....Rick
  • Great start Robert! I look forward to your build and what you are going to do about windows. SW laser cut windows have great detail and are relatively easy to build.
  • Lots of fun here. Looking forward to your build.
  • Always looking forward to seeing more of your work.
  • count me in too.
  • Ok, this is what I did. First, I didn't weather the wood because I wanted to try something else. It's gonna be a weathered, painted shed. That's all I know now. We'll see what's gonna come. A little experimenting with this build.

    The frames were painted, but that was before I decided to paint everything.

    The windows are made with very tiny pieces of scale lumber that I cut. I glued these on to mm paper to keep everything square. Then I prepared the glass which comes from a blister package. I sanded the surface to get rid of the shine and to get the glue stick better. Superglue that is.

    I altered the dimensions. The shed turned out bigger, a bit higher, three windows at the back... For now. I don't know yet what I will do with the roof. Exciting....not?

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    soon more.. :wink:
  • The windows are fantastic. I am anxious to see how you approach the weathered paint and the results. Knowing your work, I suspect it will be impressive....Rick
  • Very nice. The door latch is a welcome touch.

    For the roofs, I'd say tar paper or corrugated. Maybe both if you want the leaning addition to look like it was added later.
  • Windows look great. What are your thoughts on staining the siding and battens after they have been glued to the frame vs. before?
  • i was wondering that as well, and also, how will you paint mullions and muntins?
  • I make a difference between staining and weathering. The staining, or coloring with a transparant color, which leaves the wood visible, is best done before glueing. Glue that oozed out, doesn't take stain. Only paint. Now, for this build I was gonna paint it anyway, so in this case it doesn't really matter. But I would recommend , like the manuals suggest, to stain before glueing.

    On the other hand, the weathering part, that is the chalk treatment,, I sometimes experienced,that the tiny bits of white glue we use, don't always adhere to the chalk, if there is to much of chalk. It loosens sometimes. When I glued a weathered board, I clean the glue that oozed out with some water, but that even diludes the glue more and weakens the adherence. Well not always of course. It is a fine line....

    I always do an extra chalk weathering when a wall is finished. Even with sandpaper, xacto knife ,I hit the surfaces when I think there is to much of chalk, stain or other weathering substances on them.

    Weathering is a proces of several treatments. It never comes out of one single can or tube.
    I am sure, there are as many ways as there are modelers, and every one has his methods.

    Like I said in the intro of the build, I will experiment somewhat with methods. I will share with you my findings of course. And if this can set your minds at peace, I do skrew up sometimes... :wink:
  • Here's an impression of what the walls will look like. This is the double shed gate.

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  • in close up,

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  • Your modeling is always superb. Absolutely incredible......Rick
  • Ed said it. Can you explain your process that you used in these photo's? Thanks
  • edited October 2020
    Another wall. With explanations...

    After the gluing of the boards, I stained the wall with gray alcohol based aniline . ( that's a powder used in restoration of furniture and artworks) but the AI is just as good.

    Then a first coat of mat light grey Humbrol lacquer paint. When dry ,after two days, a second coat of mat cream color. The same type of paint.

    When completely cured, I used cellulose thinner as a paint stripper. ( do this outside , the fumes, although very little, might irritate you). Depending how much and where you want the paint to be stripped, apply the cell. with a brush and let it flow from top to bottom.

    Let dry. During the drying ,the paint will start to wrinkle . When dry, you can brush the surface and wipe away the paint. Repeat if necessary , but this is a fairly aggressive way, so don't flood the thing.

    Then I gave accents with water soluble color pencils.

    Then a wash with Ed's favorite, very diluted Bitume de Judea. :wink:

    And to finish , a little bit of pigments , or chalk if you like here and there.
    At this stage, it's enough. When all the walls are put together, some more local weathering will. be done.


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  • Looking good, Robert....thanks for the step by step process
    Terry
  • Yet another technique with fantastic results. That really looks great.......Rick
  • Fantastic results!
  • Very nice.
  • Great peeling paint effect! Thanks for sharing your processes.
  • Just beautiful, as always.
  • Thanks for sharing the process. Phil
  • Thanks Robert. Looks great.
  • -amazing results. i'm in awe....
  • Robert,

    What is the equivalent of cellulose thinner in the US?
  • It's the solvent that diludes for example car laquers, I Wouldn't know the proper English word.
  • Here's where I am now. The big space has a concrete floor, the smaller a wooden one. Not that much will be seen, but hey, I might just as well go the distance. :wink:

    Now I can start thinking what I'm gonna do with the roof. I need to make a truss , that's for sure.
    Since I made the building longer the the original, and the two doors are open, so you can look inside.

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    soon more :smile:


  • the peeling paint look is fantastic
  • Simply fantastic!
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