Thanks Emery and Art. Yes Art I saw that and am using it now. Randy
Looking great, Randy, love the colours. Keep those offcuts as you are shaping the shingles, they make great 'scrap wood' to scatter around and/or put in the empty 55 drums.
Well, I finished the shingles on the tank roof tonight. I still need to do the flashing and the fenial. I tried to get the shingles flat and overlapping the seams between the shingles as much as posable. A picture from the top and then one from the side with it on top of the tank.
Thanks for looking and as usual all comments and suggestion are welcome. Happy Holidays to all and to all a good night. Randy
Randy, Like the other members who have responded I am enjoying and learning from your well illustrated and instructive build of Kit #315, The Water Tank and Handcar Repair Shed. Later, Dave S. Tucson, AZ
Thanks Dave, Emery, and Karl for your kind and encouraging comments. We had family in town over the holidays so I did not get very much done. Thanks again, Randy
What I did get done over the holidays I just some fill in work. I am waiting for something to be sent to me before I can put the walls together and instal them on the floor. That should be sometime in January.Here are the front and back of some pallets I just finished.
I wanted them to be well used and weathered.Also I am planning to skip the cardboard roof supplied with the kit and replace it with perlans. I read somewhere that shake shingles should have about one third exposed. So the thirty inch shingles that brett has us use would need about ten inches exposure. So I mocked up some perlans using one eighth by .020 wood and some of my cedar shingles. The perlans are about a scale six inches apart. I propped up the bottom edge of the shingles with some scrap shingle from the tank roof build. I then added rows two and three. after looking at the picture I see that the second row should have been moved down about four scale inches. The exposure of the second and third rows I think looks better than the first and second rows I will be sure to get that right when I work on the real roof. As always thanks for looking and all comments and suggestions will be appreciated. Thanks, Randy
The spacing is dependent on the size (length) of the shingles, I think more around only 25% reveal to be sealed correctly. 24" shingles would have a 6" reveal, 18" shingles would have a 4.5" reveal.
The bottom of the third row needs to overlap the top of the first row, and so on up through the roof, thus closing any direct gaps for water to pass through.
However, it doesn't rain in my hobby room so as long as it looks good to my eye, I'm good with it and dont worry too much.
Thanks Carl, five inches on a model I feel is over kill. I will most likely go with eight to ten inches to the weather. You are correct Kevin Carl's and Karl's input will be a help both now and in the future. Great diagram you attached Karl. I don't think I will fool with felt under the shingles. A lean-to shed on the farm I grew up on had a shake shingle roof with no underlayment. Just the shingles nailed to the perlans. I like the looks of the exposuer on the second and third rows. If I moved both second and third row down then the bottom of the third row would overlap the top of the first row as you suggested. Thanks for your complement on the pallets. I had fun getting them that grunged up. Thanks all, Randy
Yeah, the underlay is a more modern thing, I've never seen it on an 'original' old structure, the diagram was more to show the shingle placement. Indeed, your second and third rows exposure looks just right, to me too.
Thanks Karl, for your input. I am trying to do the best that can on this model. And all of this groups comments and support is a great help. Thanks, Randy
Older style wood shingle roofs would not have had a felt underlayment...they were open to the bottom as to dry the shingles...the overlap and swelling of the shingles during rainfall kept the rain out....
Comments
Keep those offcuts as you are shaping the shingles, they make great 'scrap wood' to scatter around and/or put in the empty 55 drums.
Thanks for looking and as usual all comments and suggestion are welcome. Happy Holidays to all and to all a good night. Randy
Like the other members who have responded I am enjoying and learning from your well illustrated and instructive build of Kit #315, The Water Tank and Handcar Repair Shed.
Later, Dave S. Tucson, AZ
I wanted them to be well used and weathered.Also I am planning to skip the cardboard roof supplied with the kit and replace it with perlans. I read somewhere that shake shingles should have about one third exposed. So the thirty inch shingles that brett has us use would need about ten inches exposure. So I mocked up some perlans using one eighth by .020 wood and some of my cedar shingles.
The perlans are about a scale six inches apart. I propped up the bottom edge of the shingles with some scrap shingle from the tank roof build. I then added rows two and three.
after looking at the picture I see that the second row should have been moved down about four scale inches. The exposure of the second and third rows I think looks better than the first and second rows I will be sure to get that right when I work on the real roof. As always thanks for looking and all comments and suggestions will be appreciated. Thanks, Randy
The normal is 5 inches to the weather having a older home I replaced the roof.at that spacing.
24" shingles would have a 6" reveal, 18" shingles would have a 4.5" reveal.
The bottom of the third row needs to overlap the top of the first row, and so on up through the roof, thus closing any direct gaps for water to pass through.
However, it doesn't rain in my hobby room so as long as it looks good to my eye, I'm good with it and dont worry too much.
Dont worry so much about the measurements, as shingles vary, but think more about the process and placement.
I'm going to need to put a little more effort into some of mine in the future.
Really nice work.
Indeed, your second and third rows exposure looks just right, to me too.