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Comments
I'm just getting caught up on your build. O'Neills turned out great--especially the individual cedar shakes. While it's not a difficult task, it certainly requires a level of finesse and patience in order to get the results you did! The copper flashing/finial really complete the look.
The barn from Quincy's looks well constructed and weathered and I REALLY like the color of the wood on the little shed. Very convincing!
If I could point out 1 minor thing…take a look at the signs on the left side wall (especially in the close up shot). Those look a lot thicker than the ones on the side of the barn. It could be that the signs on that wall haven't been hit with a final dusting of chalk, perhaps.
But the white edges are the giveaway and indicate how thick the material is. some grayish chalk will help tone that down, but here are a couple things I like to do on my signs:
-after cutting them out, I'll take an emory board and sand the back side of the paper. This thins the edge of the paper (almost down to tissue paper thinness) and makes the transition less abrupt.
-after sanding, I'll color the edge. Even after sanding it, the stark white will still show and draw unwanted attention. I use rust colored chalks or weathering powder, A/I, or even thick paint--depending on the desired outcome. I posted a little SBS on pg. 1 of my Quincy's thread about signs.
Hope you don't mind me mentioning it!
Bill
I made a good amount of progress this week on the roof for the shed.
I spliced in some random boards to give me an area to leave some shingles off. I wanted this roof to look beat up more than the 2 O'Neills buildings.
I used the same technique I've used for the other roofs. Slow and steady, even on a beat up roof I wanted them to be mostly straight.
The cap shingles were the most challenging. I think it gives it a nice prototypical look though.
First application of color. I used chalks and alcohol to wash the shingles. Obviously this color will not do but it's a good base.
I added some dry chalks over the base color.
The other side.
I added some drybrushing of white and gray. The camera is not picking up the subtle color variation in the roof but it has several shades of brown/brownish gray.
I need to dirty it up a bit and maybe add some more drybrushing but overall I am happy with how the roof turned out. This was my first attempt at doing a more weathered shake roof. I really like this little shed, I will attempt to take some outdoor shots this weekend if it's nice out.
Now that I have all the main buildings roughed out I can lay them out and figure out how this diorama will come together. Hopefully I will get some time to do that this weekend. I'm also going to have to paint about 1000 castings at some point soon.
Thanks for checking in.
-Steve
This is a little better picture of the roof after drybrushing.
Ken, your photos of your O'Neills diorama put a fire under me to get the base and scenery going for mine here. I spent some time trying to wrap my head around the configuration of these buildings together. I drew a sketch but I can never really visualize it until I start putting buildings down and moving them, so I did that a bit this morning.
Obviously the elevations aren't in place yet and the trestle hasn't been built but you can get an idea of the placement of the structures.
The area between the drive-under on O'Neills and the left side of Quincy will be the retaining wall/junk pit area. I have a whole area in front of O'Neills on the other side of the tracks I need to fill also, probably more junk details. The area in front of the welding shop and the Quincy barn will be a concrete road. I decided on this placement so you can see into the interiors of both the barn and the welding shop.
Let me know any different suggestions for building placement. The track has to be where it is so it can be dropped into my layout.
Thanks
-Steve
The faded red wood on the main barn looks great. I have got to try that. Very unique look. The shingles are fantastic. It really adds another dimension to the total feel and age of the building. I am really looking forward to seeing how all this comes and together.
Keep it coming!
Jim
Bill
Thanks Ed and Bill. The cedar shingles are a ongoing experiment for me. Still getting the hang of them.
This is a little bit more how everything will sit, I think I'm going to raise the Quincys storage shed up 1/2 inch and the area around it. The elevations are too extreme to me.
I added the flooring to the main barn, I also added some oil stains on the floor. I just used floquil graphite paint spread out in a teardrop pattern, I dirtied it up with some chalk.
I built this Jordan 1928 Model A kit to go inside the barn right over that oil stain. This is the first Jordan I've built in a long time and the first plastic kit in a long time. I forgot how challenging these kits are. I was using the wrong glue in the beginning, I pressed on the car and it feel apart. I ended up getting some Tamiya plastic cement and things went a bit smoother. This is the first rag/towel I've ever done, I used the technique I learned from a few guys on this forum and it was very easy. I separated a Kleenex to single ply, cut it to size, then I added a drop of paint thinner and a drop of Floquil Oxide Red.
This is a mock up of how it'll look once it's installed in the barn. The jackstands are Brett's castings left over from The Shipyard I think. This whole area will be a huge mess of tools and rags. I was a mechanic for 10 years, I know exactly how this mess should look.
Thanks for checking in,
-Steve
-Steve
Ed, Alan is full of useful info and techniques. He's a real pro.
Here is the workbench casting, so much cool detail on this one. Everything is painted with the Reaper SW set and weathered with chalk and/or A&I. Brett has some of the finest castings in the hobby.
I added some legs with scale 4x4s and the cross braces are scale 2x4s.
This is one of my favorite details. I added the small drive belt using masking tape painted black. The oil stain is Floquil Graphite. Most of the castings in the interior of the barn are from my castings bin, I didn't want to use any of the SW castings from the kit on the interior due to the fact I plan on closing it up. It will only be visible from the door openings. I believe this is one of Brett's castings but it didn't come with this kit, maybe a left over from The Shipyard or Foss Landing.
The other workbench casting, painted and weathered the same as the other.
Here you can see the long workbench in place. I still need to add some details to the walls and under the workbenches.
Here is the other side view. The floor jack is from Evergreen Hill Designs I believe.
The other workbench installed on the back wall.
Here is a overhead shot. I added some debris to the top of the car, the canvas tarp was made using a Kleenex and colored with Floquil Depot Buff. I wanted to make the car extra dirty and give the impression it hasn't moved in some time. The second floor will not be visible once everything is put together.
Thanks for checking in.
-Steve
Alan
Bill
I plan on using your tips for lighting the interior Alan. I had to order some shades from ngineering.
I haven't come close to finishing detailing the interior, this is just for the photos.
Thanks
-Steve