Not sure what you are referring to on question #2? If I understand you right. Those boards with the ends detailed can easily be used as the same boards with an end to end joint. Just cut the board
i reworked the freight doors. i took a #2 pencil and scratched up the bottoms of the doors (the lead was blunt) to simulate hand trucks banging into them to force them open, then took some chalk powd
that CURE. I then came back with my SWSM/Reaper #29835 "Dirty Grey" lightened with a bit of white and painted the casting joints and then went over it with a moist swab removing most of the grey fro
Mike, as for brushes, anything with Red Sable or Kaminsky sable. A #0,#1 and #2 size brushes hold paint longer. As for brand, I prefer Winsor & Newton Series 7 or Professional models, pricey though.
Mike, as for brushes, anything with Red Sable or Kaminsky sable. A #0,#1 and #2 size brushes hold paint longer. As for brand, I prefer Winsor & Newton Series 7 or Professional models, pricey though.
I believe the "outside" pictures I posted in the Build Thread of this diorama look better...but I wanted to post these "inside" pictures since it provides clearer images of the different scenes of my…
Next comes the angle braces. They're cut using a chipboard jig. For each of the two assemblies, you need four pieces cut from angle jig #1, two from jig #2, and four from jig #3. I made sure the pie
A similar pattern is added for the lower roof on the opposite side--the roof of the front (ore bin) wall. On the main roof, there isn't a double course of purlins at the bottom. In addition to the 2
using a triangle, glue the front wall to right side wall #2 (the small fully boarded rectangle wall) followed by the left wall (that's the laser cut frame wall.)
Cut the first angle on a piece of stripwood, then slide it forward against the stop. Cut again and you've got piece one. Slide the stripwood forward to the stop and make another cut...there's #2. Repe
I'm a very guilty party. This is post #2 for me even though I've been on the forum since January 2014. My last note was in your wonderful Painting Castings tutorial thread last March. Wow,has it be
Dang it! I had changed door locations once and had already flipped over and re-weathered the second door from the left. I got them in the order that I thought would look best but didn't take into ac
Use boards that are not wildly different in terms of color variation. That leads to the zebra "stripy" effect that Karl mentioned. Watch out for boards that have odd grain patterns (look at board #2
initially stain the wood, using the Brown/gray #2 recipe which calls for 22 ounces of water, 1 1/2 tsp. raw umber, 1 tsp. burnt umber, 1 1/2 tsp. Asphaltum (I used dark chocolate as a substitute sinc