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Wood Shingles O Scale

edited July 2022 in Techniques
Wood shingles

I wanted wood shake shingles for my buildings, but have never found what I was looking for in premade forms. Usually they come in premade all the same color/peel-n-stick/never enough sheets. They didn't look real enough for me. Browsing the local home improvement mega store I saw this product. It was available in Oak or Birch. Birch is too hard and smooth to take the stains readily and did not have the rough cut shake look I wanted. The Oak fit the task best. After trying different method the below is what I found works for me. This technique is used on my ON30 layout and the size of the veneer may not lend itself to the HO scale.

The veneer comes in rolls with a hot glue on one side. I started using wood glue at first, which, then took too long to dry and the shingles moved around if I did not let them set up. I have a heat gun, not a hair drier, which gets hot enough and will cause the veneer to burn if you heat it too long. I use modeling tweezers, hold the venner for just a few seconds in the heat stream, the glue melts enough to them place it where you want it to go. Press down and the shingles are permanently "nailed" down.

image


I started cutting them with scissors - no good. Tried the handy wood cutter by NWSL - no good. Tried the X-Acto blade - better, but too smooth an edge. I mark on my cutting area two lines the length I want the shingles to be, lay the veneer upside down(glue up), place the X-Acto tool on the veneer and rip upwards on the veneer and tear the shingle. This gives a ragged edge and the shake shingle look.

image

Now if you want to, and this takes a long time, cut individual shingles in varying widths and then place each one on. Great for small areas and the ends of roofs and such. I you need a lot of shingles I use the veneer cut to width and cut 3-4 notches to simulate individual shingles. This makes the application goes faster. Vary the width of the cuts and the look of the shingles is improved. Draw lines on your roof base or if you use individual battens make sure they are straight. If you want to cover the shingles joint below each row, your choice. I just put the shingles on and because of the varied widths of cuts they seem to cover the joints and look good after all is done.

image

image

I stain the Oak veneer with Alcohol and Ink stain, I find a color I like and then go for it. I put on a wash of brown shoe dye and alcohol first then go over it with a black dye A&I stain.

image

image

Laying shingles is a lot of work and I take many coffee breaks in between, but I believe the effort is worth it.

Thanks for viewing,

Wayne

Comments

  • Very Nice ! well worth the time they look so real
  • Nice step by step. Results are great.
  • Wayne, that is very clever! thank you for your in depth description and photo record. The shingles are beautiful. I think I'll try to figure out a place to incorporate them into one of the shipyard roofs.

    John
  • Just bringing this to the front of the discussion
  • Thanks for posting this up here again....this is basically the same way as I've used for a bit. It is a time intensive and tedious job. The results are worth it in my opinion. And yes....only good for O scale....
  • i'm gonna go get a roll of that stuff to have on hand.
  • waynelp said:

    Wood shingles

    I wanted wood shake shingles for my buildings, but have never found what I was looking for in premade forms. Usually they come in premade all the same color/peel-n-stick/never enough sheets. They didn't look real enough for me. Browsing the local home improvement mega store I saw this product. It was available in Oak or Birch. Birch is too hard and smooth to take the stains readily and did not have the rough cut shake look I wanted. The Oak fit the task best. After trying different method the below is what I found works for me. This technique is used on my ON30 layout and the size of the veneer may not lend itself to the HO scale.

    The veneer comes in rolls with a hot glue on one side. I started using wood glue at first, which, then took too long to dry and the shingles moved around if I did not let them set up. I have a heat gun, not a hair drier, which gets hot enough and will cause the veneer to burn if you heat it too long. I use modeling tweezers, hold the venner for just a few seconds in the heat stream, the glue melts enough to them place it where you want it to go. Press down and the shingles are permanently "nailed" down.

    image


    I started cutting them with scissors - no good. Tried the handy wood cutter by NWSL - no good. Tried the X-Acto blade - better, but too smooth an edge. I mark on my cutting area two lines the length I want the shingles to be, lay the veneer upside down(glue up), place the X-Acto tool on the veneer and rip upwards on the veneer and tear the shingle. This gives a ragged edge and the shake shingle look.

    image

    Now if you want to, and this takes a long time, cut individual shingles in varying widths and then place each one on. Great for small areas and the ends of roofs and such. I you need a lot of shingles I use the veneer cut to width and cut 3-4 notches to simulate individual shingles. This makes the application goes faster. Vary the width of the cuts and the look of the shingles is improved. Draw lines on your roof base or if you use individual battens make sure they are straight. If you want to cover the shingles joint below each row, your choice. I just put the shingles on and because of the varied widths of cuts they seem to cover the joints and look good after all is done.

    image

    image

    I stain the Oak veneer with Alcohol and Ink stain, I find a color I like and then go for it. I put on a wash of brown shoe dye and alcohol first then go over it with a black dye A&I stain.

    image

    image

    Laying shingles is a lot of work and I take many coffee breaks in between, but I believe the effort is worth it.

    Thanks for viewing,

    Wayne

    i couldn't for life of me make out the size of the roll. can anybody see that and let me know?
    thanks in advance.

  • edited July 2022
    Sure, in the first pic the label in the right corner of the packaging says ....

    P/C Oak Red
    1 1/16" x 25'
  • thanks. i couldn't see it.
  • Wayne,

    Nice tutorial. Thanks for sharing this information with the photos.

    Later, Dave S. Tucson, AZ
  • They look nice when finished. I've taken to using a mix of HO scale 1x12 1x10 1x8 for shingles. I like the thickness and the varied width
  • You're spot on Bryan.
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