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Tractor repair shed 2.0
I built this kit a little over 6 years ago and was very happy to see it available again. Since part deux was already taken, I went with version 2.0
Comments
The first pick shows the heavy brush I use. It's as stiff as a file brush and easier to handle. It can be a bit much for thin boards though. Speaking of boards, I was happy to see instructions written in scale lumber vs dimensional lumber. ie: 1x12 vs .020x.250
I wanted a dull gray wood tone. My experiments with gray chalks did not give me the color I wanted so I did a variation of the wet brush method and got some interesting results. The wall piece on the left is the color of the chalks. I dry brushed a light and very light gray on the wall hoping to get the gray tones I wanted but the color was not noticible. I used a wide flat brush to apply IA (1tsp/pt) and brush it in. This smeared the color all around to an even coat. Once dry I added more coats of IA until I got the color you see on the right piece of wall (5 total coats). After the final coat dried I lightly sanded with 220 grit paper, brushed lightly with a brass brush to remove the dust then went over lightly with 0000 steel wool to remove the newly created fuzzies.
I'm happy with the coloring and should be able to easily recreate it on all of the other wood.
I'll be doing this as a standalone structure on a diorama with some extra logging disconnects and a kerosene critter to move them around. Unless Brett decides to reissue the Rigging shed in which case, I will likely combine the 2.
Terry
Phil, I wrote down the chalk colors in the front of the manual. Learned this lesson after a build where I liked the color of the walls but forgot the colors.
Terry, there are 5 coats. They went on like this: The wall on the left already has 1 coat on it. I always give a coat to the boards after the chalk is set and before I start building. A 2nd coat was applied after the wall was constructed. A 3rd coat was used to wash up the drybrushing. A 4th coat was added to add depth to the grain again after the previous step. A 5th coat was added after the sanding, brushing, etc to once again add depth. I could probably skip 1 or even 2 coats now that I know what I'm doing. It sure does have that silvery gray that I was looking for.
More will be added to the bottom of the walls for "water marks". Maybe even a bit of slimy moss. We'll see. Depends on what scenery I'm going for. I'm leaning East coast so slimy moss would be appropriate.
I'll let this dry overnight before adding anymore IA or doing any sanding/brushing.
Rigging and Tool sheds coming next month!
The walls are constructed. A bit of final weathering to do later as I decide on how the scenes will look. You can't hide the fuzzies from the super close-ups.
I started prepping castings as well. Seen here is the forge. I carved a cavity to install a light feature leaving enough material around to not let any light come through. I drilled a dozen or so holes in the top of the casting down to the cavity so the embers light up.
I'm also looking at how to place this. The instructions call for a 14.5 X 15.5 base. I'm thinking I will go with a 12x18 base...same area but will fit on a shelf better. Once finalized in my mind I will order the acrylic case. Once that arrives, I can build the basic ground formations so that the cover can be lifted off.
When hollowing out the forge casting do you use a slow Dremel speed so as not to cause damage to the casting from heat?
Later, Dave S. Tucson, AZ
I believe there is enough room in here to put the electronics but I'll probably put the board under the diorama just in case I have to access it at some point.
Once all done, I'll probably just slap a piece of duck tape over the cavity so light doesn't escape out the back. I'll be using tiny LED's so heat won't be a problem.
I am looking forward to seeing this forge come alive. Thanks for the detailed explanation of how you created this along with the photos.
Perfect timing for the forge to be fired up as temperatures begin to cool down and rain and snow are in the forecast.
Later, Dave S. Tucson, AZ
Bryan, for the pot belley stove i did. I used some .005 brass sheet. It's pretty much perfect for a light block.
Option 1: structure is perpendicular to the front of the dio. I think this is the least interesting option.
Option 2: structure is angled to viewer's left. This gives a full view down the inside of the structure from all openings as well as a free view of the side track which will be occupied. The overhead for this angle shows some possible elevation changes. A small rise to the top left, a downward slope to the bottom left, and an area for a ditch to the bottom right.
Option 3: structure is angled to the viewer's right. I'm not sure how I feel about blocking the side track here, but it may grow on me. You never know.
Opinions?
Interesting dilemma. Choices 2 and 3 definitely seem to make the outdoor tractor more of the focus. In option 2 the structure and indoor tractor seem to be more a part of the action. I tend to like option 2 a bit better for that reason. Perhaps photographing it on a table with a more neutral background would help make your choice more decisive.
Later, Dave S. Tucson, AZ
But, i'm super nee to this so. Well. That's all i got.
Dave, I got lazy and just sat it on a chair. I think I'm going to get one of those portable photo booths. 24"x24" should handle even a full diorama I think.
I've been using either a white or black sheet of foam board. My local art store often has it on special. Now I need to get a sheet and put a simple sky/clouds painted on it for a change-up.
I think Joel is onto something there with his suggestion of a bit of elevation.. Good idea/reminder, Joel. Thanks.
Later, Dave S. Tucson, AZ