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Kit 314/315 Morton's Foundry

My kit arrived yesterday so I'm starting a placeholder thread so I can quit posting ideas on Muddy's thread. I wanted to share my initial thoughts and hopefully get your ideas as well. This kit has so much potential and I can't wait to dig in.

For starters, it appears that Brett is holding out on us because I don't see a kit 313. We went from 312 Truck repair to this. Maybe 313 is a set of CHB steam donkeys that I've bugged him about! Can't wait to see those Brett.

I plan on incorporating several of the effects that Ken used on his HO build. Not trying to be a copycat but I really liked several of the mini-scenes that he built in and plan to shamelessly steal his ideas. Rotted siding/roof sections, rail handcart, etc.

I'm also considering (again) using a slate roof to give the mill an eastern feel like something you might see in OH or PA. I'm thinking the main roof of the foundry. I like the metal roof on the pilot but have been dying to try out slate. I've made enough tiles to put together a test section of roof. Time will tell on this.

I have 2 placement arrangements in mind:

Construct it as shown is a good option. It looks so great just the way it is. If I do this, I'm considering using cobblestone in the yard area going under the crane, once again adding to the eastern feel. Outlining the cobblestone with a brick walkway might look very interesting.

Construct as 2 complexes on either side of a rail line with the crane traversing the rail line. I like the idea of using the crane over a rail line. It just makes sense to me. This configuration gives the added benefit of making the diorama easier to display on a shelf. But it does eliminate the coziness of the yard area.

Either way it will be populated with lots of peeps and will have a few extras added. I'm thinking a string of 3 flats/gons. A tractor pulling a trailer or a Nash quad might be in order. Since the sign on the side of the repair shop says "hoist engines" I should add a donkey. Can't wait for kit 313 Brett!
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Comments

  • Bryan,

    My guess(hope) for the "missing kit, #313," is the final structure in the O-Scale Railroad Camp, The Boiler & Welding Shop.

    As your time permits please share you attempts at making slate tiles for a structure.

    A few years back I started stock piling some 1/48th scale pavers to use in my dioramas, most notably around train stations and depots. My best source for them has been Secret Weapon Miniatures.

    Later, Dave S. Tucson, AZ
  • Bryan, looking forward to the build. Phil
  • yup, 313 is indeed the boiler and welding shop for the railroad camp...
  • Bryan you're always welcome to post my friend.....I too have ideas on placement of the Foundry and O'Neills….I also like the across the tracks concept....I tend to build on the fly....I will change my mind in a flash.....change up textures, colors.....concepts....No tile roof for me....but I have a bunch of cedar shingles that might just end up on the roof of the repair shop.....
  • Now a boiler repair shop....lol...I'm running out of space...and loose cash....I see an industrial complex in the future of my layout....


  • I agree Muddy. I like to throw out lots of ideas and see what sticks. Don't want to be inflexible with a build.
  • Bryan,
    Looking forward to following along. Always delighted with your builds.
  • I have a pile of grained and detailed wood now waiting to be stained. I went ahead and added a corner to highlight some rotted boards. Looking around the pics of the finished HO model, this is about the only place that will be visible at the ground. The studs are a scale 3x5. I liked the oversized 2x4 look. This is thicker than the sheet of cardstock so I added some pieces of the cardstock on the back with double sided tape. Once I added some inside wall boards, it was flush. I'll weather these boards before adding siding to look like a black mold outbreak. OK maybe not that bad.

    Still toying around with peeling paint options. Leaning towards mineral spirits resist.10FE09EC-F22E-435F-80A2-1895913A8BD8
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  • That looks like it will work out nice....anxious to see the results.....I went with a tarpaper backed wall that shows in a few spots on my walls....I think you have a good thing working here....I dig the damaged wall concept.....
  • Thanks Muddy.

    Got the wood stained. Looks like I could have grained around the knots a little deeper as the rings don't show up too well. I did go sparingly with the chalk. May work on them a bit more but since the wall will be painted, may not matter.

    The process for the wood so far was to brush with a stiff steel brush then a softer brush. Run through steel wool. Grab 1/3 or so of the boards and put in knots with pick, add back to the pile and mix up. Grab 1/3 or so and add banding using razor, add back to pile and mix up. Grab 1/3 or so and add toothpick knot holes. Color with equal parts 408.3, 408.5 and 234.3. Add white to some random batches. Add 1 coat IA. I got a nice tan color as warm as a spring day in Tampa. If it was not being painted I believe that a more gray tone would be in order.

    Hope to get the painting done today.
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  • Looks like you're off to a great start, texture is a wonderful base under the paint.
  • I did a mineral spirit resist paint job. Some of the boards kept their color underneath, some did not. No problem as a weathering/blending will happen after the walls are put together.

    I gave 2 coats of mineral spirits followed by 2 coats of craft paint. I used a heat gun on low air/high heat to help speed the drying process. This produced some interesting bubbles in the paint. The one in the 2nd pic here is too big and will need to be removed, but thought it was interesting to show. 52CB6836-CB19-40AD-AC25-62E38BB1DB88
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  • Like the effects on the paint....nice work....
  • Looks great
  • Bryan,

    Your tutorials are always appreciated. I like your detailed explanations and the photos you add to illustrate techniques.

    Later, Dave S. Tucson, AZ
  • Thanks fellas. Much appreciated.

    Dave, forgot to mention one step on the peeling paint: When boards are dry to the touch take 4 at a time (that's the width of the tape). I used my stiff wire brush and rocked it back and forth over the entire length of the boards, jabbing the bristles into the paint and wood. Apply tape, press firmly then take it off. Touch up was not necessary on most boards but you can easily take more off.
  • Trying out some nails in the studs. Bristles from a brass brush.
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  • Great details. So many things to copy.
  • Wow...really nice effect.....they look good.....I'm even in O scale not that keen on nail holes...as they are "holes".....scale nails has always been hard to replicate.....I think you have the answer.....might try a similar treatment on the office near the prep shed....I like the damaged areas as you can tell by my walls.....
  • Joel, I may have copied this from you.

    Give it a try Muddy. I'll trim these down a bit and I don't think there is a way to put a head on them, but in this little corner I think it works. Small hole with a dental pick, touch of CA glue and stick it in. I went with brass over steel because they can be trimmed with scissors while in place.
  • Here's a thought on a "nail head"....a tiny drop of epoxy on the tip of the wire....just as it starts to set.....flatten it with the tip of a #17 blade.....now you're going to make me try this.....all morning long.....lol.….one of the reasons I got those extra fine tip pens was to put a tiny circle to represent a nail head.....if you notice...I haven't done any nail holes as of yet....may or may not....I now have an idea on the small hole I may have in the office wall.....Stuff can get out of control on those overhead hoists......
  • All things in discretion. I'll give the epoxy a try also. Wire size I have works right now.

    Trying out the first wall.

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  • Looks great! love the peeling paint.
  • Thanks Joel.

    Why Ed, that paint came out of Mr. Morton's company store. Wait till you see Mr. Morton. He's a laid back dude just like you.

    But seriously. Color choice is always a personal preference. I wanted to use Ruddy Brown and Rusty Red out of the SW paint kit but decided against it. Lots of boards and if they got 2-3 heavy coats of paint I might run out. Nothing worse than running out of the color you were using and still have boards left to paint. I dug around my stash of craft paint...lots of which were basically dried paint plugs wrapped in a plastic bottle. I did find some "My Studio: Brick Red" and "Folk Art: Burnt Sienna". I put a puddle of each color on my work area and applied about 2/3 red and 1/3 BS. Not that kind of BS. I would load the brush with one and start painting then load the other side with the other color and keep painting. Very sloppy...it looked like I had butchered something when I was done. Though I did try to only paint on one side of each work area. I used 2 glass cutting boards, smooth side up and transferred the boards around with tweezers.

  • Terrific wood work Bryan and man you are moving right along. I love your arrangement of the butted boards...perfectly random. Anxious to see this structure walled up, should be amazing if you keep up this pace!
  • Looking good my friend....dig the damage over the freight door....I ended up using a burgundy shade with Americana craft paint....toned it with a little medium gray.
  • edited April 2020
    man those boards look great. really great.
  • That wall looks amazing. The color variation across the boards looks natural with the right amount of natural wood showing through. I appreciate how difficult it is to get that variety of colors across a wall and make it look like it belongs together. Absolutely perfect!
  • Thanks guys. It's amazing how quickly things can come together when you are shut in and trying to avoid everyone else who is shut in your house with you.

    Steve, the boards will really start to come together on the next steps. I'll board up all of the walls then trim them up. I have an order of #17 blades in and hopefully will arrive soon. After that, I'll wet the bottom boards to get the wood to swell just a bit then take off a bit more paint. This way you will definitely be able to see more paint at the top of the wall and less on the bottom. Have to be careful here not to use too much water and warp the backing. Add a few dings and gouges here and there. Then I will likely give a first color blending. Probably will use a medium gray or brown over the entire walls. Not meant to be the final weathering, just the base coat for the final weathering. I may even add a few nails.
  • That is a great idea. I've used the #17 blade plenty but never thought about wetting the boards first. Thanks for the tip. Looking forward to seeing the walls put together.
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