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Comments
While I haven't built the Dueling Shacks, I'm familiar with it enough to know that you'll be exposed to plenty of signature SW techniques and "secrets".
I LOVE that you've got reference pictures right from the beginning. So important!! Do your best to get close to the look, colors and textures that you see. Work until you're satisfied or...if you get stuck (and ALL of us do), reach out for help.
Don't feel intimidated or frustrated, one of us here on the forum will lend a hand.
We all had to build a first kit--although you win for showing the most restraint in waiting to start one (13 kits???? Lol). People helped us along the way and none of us were born great (except for Karl. And Brett. And, probably Ken. Kevin was always great. Of course there's Alan, and Joel and...)
But mortals like ME? Still a work in progress!
Stick with the manual, post your progress, and have fun!
The first step was to lightly sand the edges of the strips to add some depth. The strips on the right have been sanded. I believe the difference should be subtle.
Next I worked the ends of the strips. I worked one end that would be the bottom of the wall along the dirt, thereby being more weathered. I trimmed the other end as if it was going to be butted up end-to-end against another board.
The first photo is to be of the weathered end.
The second photo shows the more square number.
Per Dr. Grunge's techniques, I used a wire brush to rough up the end and then used the sanding wand to smooth out the contours. I also took a softer brass bristled brush to soften some of the contours without totally losing the texture. Unfortunately, the contrast on the photo washes out some of the cut contouring that has been smoothed out.
I next wanted to try making some knot holes. As I looked at some knots, there tend to be a good number of them in boards, they are just more discrete in general.
This photo shows the toothpicks inserted into the holes bored with a #11 blade. I wanted to make these smaller so they would be more subtle.
I put a drop of AI onto the knot holes to get a better idea of what they will look like. These photos show the results.
I suspect that some of the details will pop when the chalk and alcohol are applied.
I would be grateful for any suggestions on the following:
1. How do you create the texturing around the knot hole? Whatever tool I use tends to track with the wood grain instead of scribing around the knot hole.
2. If you weather the bottom of the boards, it would seem that you have to glue them even to the bottom of the wall template and work end-to-end joints in around them?
And if there are questions about how I did anything I'm happy to answer. I am hoping this might be helping someone instead of just being a show and tell.
Thanks again for everyone's comments and suggestions.
Mark
Sure you havnt done this before? HAHA
Looks very good to me and seems like youve taken to this like a duck to water.
#1. I texture around my knot holes with my #11 blade. And I usually do the detail for the knot hole before installing the knot. Your next to the last picture that center knot (easiest to see) looks fabulous! It looks slightly oblong and very natural. You could try taking a subtile contrasting "slurry" as I mentioned above and just touch a bit to the finished knot hole to highlight.
Not sure what you are referring to on question #2? If I understand you right. Those boards with the ends detailed can easily be used as the same boards with an end to end joint. Just cut the board where you want the joint and detail the cut end to taste with the previously detailed end at the bottom.
I'm headed to Malawi in less than two weeks and travel preparations will take priority. I'll be gone for three weeks serving with some dear missionary brothers.
So the Dueling Shacks will likely be on hiatus until September. Thanks for the wonderful support.
Mark
I have about 4 malawians who work for me. Very soft gentle people, who work very hard.
Look forward to your updates when you are back.
Mark
I hope you won't mind that I show you what has transpired.
I spent over two weeks in Africa and has the joy of spending time with these orphans in Dar Es Salaam, Tanzania.
When I got home I completed the remodel on what has become my train room.
I had a post on control panel wiring and wiring of a test track module. Here is the module with completed handlaid track with the two Deer Creek Lumber locomotives in the foreground.
I completed the basics of the board for the layout. I've shown the general placements of SWSM kits that the layout has been designed around.
And here is the first stage of the treatment of the wood for the tarpaper shack that I got completed tonight.
So upward and onward. I'm glad to be back here with the gang.
Mark
In the spirit of testing out ideas, I'm looking to try some things here before I start my other HO kits.
Thanks for the encouragement.
Mark
It seemed reasonable that there would be a floor so I decided to use 4" x 4" stock to create a realistic framework. I'll extend the siding over the base so it will be less obvious.
I'm welcome to hear any ideas or comments.
Mark
As I was interested in being able to see some interior details this seemed a good step in that direction.
As I said I'm open for suggestions. I do appreciate the input.
Mark
(OK I should have hit Post Comment a few weeks ago. Sorry Robert)
Here is a view of the framing. The color is darker than it actually is.
Here is a view of the base from the end view. The doors will be on the near end. I am going to put the workbench on the inside left. I have tried to model the wear patterns of foot traffic as well as scuffing at the freight door as well as a bit at the door from dragging items in through the doors.
This is a view from the freight door side. The door will be on the front left.
This view is from the person door entrance.
It is nice to finally being seeing some progress. A special thanks to Brett for his encouragement over the last few months.
Mark
George
Terry
It seemed that there really is a lot of cool detail available so I wanted to stretch my wings to do the interior framing to get an idea of how to detail some of the inside as practice for the other projects.
I will be continuing on this soon and will post as I do.
Again, thanks for the encouragement.
Mark
Karl.A