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BlueSky Company Warehouse HO/HOn3

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Comments

  • Right you are Bryan. I did the security bars just for fun and something different.

    Right working on the fourth one but not sure I'll add it. Kind of like the look with three despite the possibility of a break-in! Two for sure not enough, four seemed a bit busy...we'll see.
  • ok, how about the remnants of the fourth bar on the window frame, holes from the bolts, a little rust streaking, etc...

    On a side note I love the crackle on the window...
  • Great idea Brett! Like my Dad...always knew what to do.

    To be critical of myself, which I also enjoy doing...

    The bars may be slightly wider than they should be, the bolt heads are a bit large as well but are the smallest I can get, I may try the cut solder trick on the other one. and they need a little worn paint on them as well. It does however look fairly good just looking at it.

    The only reason I used the "crackle" paint was that I didn't use any resist layer on the window and it lifts readily without it. Hairspray and regular white paint would accomplish the same thing, as the cracked finish really can't be decerned without magnification! The scorge of 1:87 scale details...many are difficult to see! I love the look though as well.
  • edited February 2017
    Love Brett's idea...
    A bolt on each side or is it possible to make the bar hanging down as if the threads didn't hold on one side?
  • Dude, how about one missing and the other with the fourth one hanging down still fastened on one side? Nice...this is modeling at it's best! Thanks Bill for tabling the issue. Brett had another issue that I will clarify once I have the above details sorted out and implemented.
  • Instead of bolt heads you could use a rivet or carriage bolt head which can be modelled in HO with a drop of glue or those rivet decals. It would keep to scale and be easier.
    Just a thought.
  • Right Joel...those actually are rivet heads and already .025" which I'm glad you brought up becuase I thought .025 was the smallest but there is a .020. I'm going to order some of those and that actually may do it! Thanks Joel.
  • Wow, great effect on that window!
  • Down with that Ed!

    Thanks much Nejc. I was pleased with how it turned out and a testament to how versatile Brett's resin castings are. Working on the rest of the windows in similar fashion...Ken
  • Hello Hello. Anyone there?

    Taking another vacation there Dr Grunge? Or are you working on another lot of mind blowingly wonderful HO details?
  • Guilty as charged Wes! My lame explaination is that all the walls for BlueSky are detailed with doors, windows, and misc. before assembly. As you may have seen here, I experimented with detailing clapboard siding with removal of strategic pieces with framing and interior siding showing through. The experiment went well and I have now detailed eight different places to varying degree. Each one takes a good bit of time to complete. In addition, I have just about finished all the windows and doors. Blah, blah, blah...right? I know what you're thinking...just get on with it. All the walls are nearly finished and I will take some pictures of each one to highlight the deatils before putting the structure together.

    As I mentioned in my Wood Clinic, the treatment of the wood, which here includes both stripwood and clapboard siding, is so important to the overall build that I'm treating each separate wall as a individual model.

    Thanks for "rattling my cage" Wes, I get fired up just talking about this stuff...
  • edited March 2017
    I will be posting an update on my progress with BlueSky over the next few days. I have completed the detailing on the Office and Dry Goods Store, a total of 7 different walls. Following this update, I will be assembling all the walls of the two structures comprising the BlueSky main building complex.

    The gabled two-sided wall originally displayed the large main "BlueSky Company" sign and was supplied as a dry transfer decal. This BlueSky kit is now 22 years old and following an experiment I performed with the extra dry transfer decals Brett provided in the kit on a test piece of clapboard siding, I found the paint was quite dry and did not transfer well. I discussed this with Brett and decided rather than risk a poor transfer on this highly visible wall I decided to make a sign to install in the same location as the original spot for the BlueSky decal.

    The picture below is of the completed sign and Gabled "Front Wall". Art work was found on the internet and was sized and printed on a color printer. The images were glued to a piece of styrene sheet cut to size, covered with matte finish Magic Tape by 3M, and weathered with chalks and raw umber gouache.

    IMG_1290

    IMG_1290A

    Those not familiar with BlueSky, the "un-stained" portion of this wall does not show and the door seen along the right side is the inside of a door that is entered from the outside loading dock area and is not visible. Note the simple paper blind glued to the back of the window.

    The following picture is the other side of the wall. I wanted to maintain the iconic BlueSky name somewhere on the diorama. I decided to make a sign from one of the smaller BlueSky Dry Transfer decals but once again did not want to risk a poor transfer onto a finished wall. I made a sign board and performed the transfer, this way if it turned out poorly it could be re-done or not done at all. The transfer on the flat board went very well I think and proudly displays the BlueSky name!

    IMG_1263

    IMG_1294

    A bit of scale perspective. More walls to come...
  • Way to adapt and overcome with the new sign, Ken. "Groceries and Dry Goods" has a cool ring to it and helps pinpoint the era being modeled.

    The wood color has me a little concerned...
    Really dark stained siding didn't hold it's deep color for long (since it attracts sunlight more readily than other colors). The area around the man door looks about right to my eye, but the higher gable area is what I thought might be as faded--or maybe even more so. Just an observation--

    (who knows, maybe you haven't finished weathering the siding and I'm supposed to be looking only at the grocery sign!!!)
  • Way to early to be looking at that kind of thing. Good spot though Bill, I want to see how much roof overhang there will be before commiting to any further weathering. And to be honest, the walls did not look very good heavily faded. I experimeneted extensively on some extra clapboard siding. Now the pictures here are a bit dark taken indoors and I drive Brett crazy with my lack luster picture taking. That particualr wall with the big sign does seem darker and less weathered than my other walls...hmm
    I paid much more attention to fading the paint along the bottom edges of the walls (dark to light) as you'll see in my future posts and less attention to the reverse needed under the eaves (light to dark)...
  • Fair enough. Just gotta keep you on your toes!
  • Great work. Love the peeling paint on the door.
  • Love the groceries sign - fits right in. Sign above door looks great too....
  • Looks nice, but the painters you hired missed a spot in pic 1.
  • edited March 2017
    Thanks Brett for your counceling, and the sign came together well and appreciate your thoughts on it.

    Hey Joel, thanks much and due to the close up shots the paint peel looks a bit harsh in the image but is much more subdued in front of me

    Bryan, those stumble bums can't follow instructions for anything! Sorry that area is a distraction for sure but of course is covered once the walls are together.

    Ed, You can't shame me into moving to the "dark side"! That diorama Brett came up has the ability to convert the purist of HO Scale Modelers.
  • Looks great Ken. The sign is excellent, did you add the rust or is it part of the image?
  • edited March 2017
    OK Bill...your suggestion and critical eye on the wall bothered me all day. I knew I didn't look right after you brought it to my attention. You have a superb eye for that sort of thing. I came home and immeditaley began tweaking the wall a bit and took an outside shot with better lighting. Below are the results. You'll notice the darker less weathered siding up under the area where the roof overhang would be (studied the manual on that). I blacked out the distracting area that will be covered once the walls are together.

    IMG_1309




  • edited March 2017
    White balance a bit off
  • edited March 2017
    Hi Steve, Posted this update before seeing your post...thanks for your thoughts. I added the rust stains and streaks. The center black and white sign was separate from the CocaCola signs. So the sign is made up of three separate pieces. I just cut the coke bottle off a duplicate of the left side sign. Hate the close ups...geesh the left CocaCola sign is a hair off level!...@$@*!%$
  • Here is another wall at the back of BlueSky. Only 5 more to go....more tomorrow

    IMG_1288
  • Thanks Ed...yea, when Bill spots something its the real deal. That wall was just too dark. I was trying to figure out why it got so dark compared to the other walls and my lame excuse is that I was spending all my time messin around with the sign that I failed to weather the wall as I did the others. However, Bill also pointed out abouth the subtile diffrerence in the wethering under the roof eaves which would be a bit darker and less weathered than the remainder of the wall and that's when the light bulb kind of thing went off.
  • Dude, that looks SO sharp! That little adjustment tied the age of the wall and the sign together. So now it looks the formerly white sign has yellowed to about the same degree as the brown siding has lightened. I think you'll have a really killer effect when you add the overhang.
    Did you take a scratch pen to those boards or how did you do it?

    The rotted boards at the bottom of the other wall are well done, too.

    Ed--you're too kind!
    The problem is, a lot of times I can't see similar things in my own work. I try to think stuff through ahead of time, but just like what Ken said...it's easy to fixate on getting one component correct and overlook the basics.
    With the dark siding, I had some real world help:
    My parent's house had dark brown wood siding and it was a colossal pain in the a$$--constantly fading and cracking (especially on the southern exposure). It developed that bleached out look about a year after staining it, and Ken captured the effect to a "T".

  • Ken, I like the change to the siding. It does look a lot better. Phil
  • edited March 2017
    Well stated Ed and thanks for your thoughts. Have a safe trip.

    Appreciate that Bill and thanks for the schooling. This is what this forum is all about!

    Phil, thanks for the vote of confidence and glad I re-worked things a bit.
  • edited March 2017
    Bill, you mentioned that you liked the rotted boards at the bottom of the wall on the previous picture. I eluded previously as to how tedious this is to accomplish with solid scribed clapboard siding. Here is a detail shot of the back of the wall where that rotted area was made. I had to carve out the back of the siding down to the thickness of just the clapboard and put in the framing. I did this in several places as this is the first time trying this technique.

    IMG_1320
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