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HO O'Neill's Fabrication Non-build thread

edited June 2016 in HO Scale Builds
Since Ken Karns has a fabulous official build thread going I won't clutter it up with a photo of what I've got going here. Ken is really good and while group builds can be fun and they do have their place, they can get confusing and in my opinion if others want to share their builds they are sure welcome to chime in here.

If you bought early you were able to buy at a great price a neat little welding car to put on the siding by O'Neills, or add it to your work train. I started by priming all of the resin and metal castings for O'Neills, and then my new SWSM paint set arrived and it was an easy decision to dive right in decorating the little welding car. What a fun little project- the car is essentially two castings- a white metal frame and under-body and an incredible one piece resin deck, bin with dozens of details molded in, and bench and cabinet. Both types of castings represent wooden beams, and I sprayed the resin black with Krylon Camo, and the white metal frame was dunked in JAX Pewter Black and buffed with my Dremel.

Then I got to try out most of my new 36 color paint set- what a treat to use these Reaper paints that Brett is marketing. They are terrific to use, cover in the thinnest coat possible, and dry incredibly quickly. In fact, if you are going to use Brett's new technique on weathering the tanks with your scratch brush you better be quick!

Here are two shots of the mostly finished car- it still needs some touch-up, more powders, an oil spill or two, a couple of chains holding the tanks in place, etc.

This is not a step-by-step, but DTR (a golf term for down-the-road- Kevin O'Neill was a great golfer!) I will show some progress shots. Others welcome to do so as well.imageimage
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Comments

  • Wow Mike, what a treat to see your finished welding car! Superb job, I love the tanks especially.
  • Most excellent Mike. Great coloring wood looks just like real wood.


    Jerry
  • Hey Mike, really glad you're featuring this bonus Welding Car as I'm getting one with my other O'Neills kit I ordered but will not be featuring it on the Forum build I have going now. Very nicely done, and Like Brett, the tanks are terrific...Ken
  • I have one of these, and I really like the way you did yours. I'm trying to decide on archbar or Fox trucks for mine. This little kit is going to be great for mastering the new paints and painting the castings! One disadvantage: Everyone who sees it wants it!
  • edited April 2016
    OK so here's my shot at the siding for the main building. Grained, two applications of stain and knotholes. The knotholes have yet to be accentedimageimage
  • Well done and you achieved some nice variation in color tones. Look forward to seeing theses go up on the walls...Ken
  • Looks good Alan. Did you use Brett's pastel chalk staining technique? If so, what color chalks did you use?
    Thanks
    SteveF
  • edited April 2016
    Thanks Ken!

    Yes Steve I did use Brett's technique. I'm at work at the moment and don't recall the specific colors, but if you bought the kit, he identifies which ones to use in the manual. This is not my first rodeo with craftsman structure kits, but it is my first SWSM kit, and everything I've read says "follow the manual". In my reading of past build threads elsewhere, most folks who had problems seem to have had them because they didn't follow the manual, so I'm being pretty OCD about that! I applied chalk just about the way you would salt a piece of corn on the cob, and the wood seemed a little too light, so I went back and did it again. I let it all dry overnight both times. I got it pretty wet with the alcohol. Spreads the color out nicely!
  • I appreciate the insight. I asked about the colors because I don't have the HO kit but am anxiously waiting for the O scale version. I agree that Brett's instructions are the best in the industry with all of the weathering and building tips. They are an education in themselves.
    SteveF
  • The colors were Raw Umber 408.3 and 408.5, and Raw Sienna 234.3
  • Great looking boards Alan, looks to be mostly 408.3, a little 408.5 giving some really nice tonal variations throughout, I'll let you answer specifically, they are going to give you some great looking walls.
    Two things I model by, and have since I started...
    Brian Nolan - "Don't be afraid to try it, the worst that can happen is you have to try again"
    Everyone Else - "Just follow Brett's instructions"

    SierraWest instructions are definitely the best modeling education you will get.

    Karl.A

  • The raw sienna stick is really crumbly, and breaks into smaller pieces without much coaxing, making it harder to get as much of it onto the boards!
  • It may have gotten damp, or moisture at some point in its life. Rub the small pieces on some fine grit sand paper to give you a fine powder, then use this powder to sprinkle onto the boards, not quite as controllable as scraping the stick as recommended, but as it is an accent colour it should give some nice tonal variations and results.

    Karl.A
  • I have a lighter raw umber too. I may try that one. 234.5
  • 234.5 is a great complimentary colour, it looks stark at first, dry, but when blended in and used sparingly it gives good variation.

    Karl.A
  • edited May 2016
    My painted lumber. It's darker in person. What do you think?
  • trying againimage
  • I found the technique similar to dry brushing.
  • Looks good Alan, particularly the first half I see there. Nice progress. I'm boarding the Tower walls as we speak. Anxious to see how your boards go up...Ken
  • Yeah I thought some of them looked a little thin, but that's what second coats are for!
  • So that first try didn't turn out so well, but I had plenty of paint left and after watching Brett's latest video I tried again. My error: too timid with the paint. Here we go again:image
  • I like this look better!
  • Spot on Alan!
  • Alan, nice work and that video really speaks volumes on the technique. Craftsman Kit University is another great feature of Brett's web-site. Lets see some walls!...Ken
  • edited May 2016
    I'm actually pretty close to doing walls! I have to do the header pieces, then I can start boarding them up! All of the first stage lumber is prepped, including the green boards.
  • Anxiously awaiting...Ken
  • edited May 2016
    What with bring my daughter home from college for the summer, spring yardwork and so on, it's tough to find modeling time at the moment, so I'm playing a little hooky from chores today. The door and window are framed, and I'm going to start siding as soon as the glue dries. I've noticed my shimming boards are a little wide and stick out from under the window frames a bit. I believe I can correct it with a single edged razor blade so the siding will fit properly
    imageimage
  • The close up doesn't seem to want to load
  • OK first wall done, and sadly I have to go do some actual work. Time to mow the grass! Your thoughts and constructive criticism are welcome!image
  • edited May 2016
    Great progress Alan. Peeling paint looks great although my neck hurts trying to see the wall vertically! Just messin with ya. My personal taste here would be to "dirty" up the boards with some 408.5. Brett describes rolling the boards between your fingers that have been pressed into the chalk and this gives just the right effect of "dirtying" the board without overpowering the peeling paint. Either way, your wall looks wonderful, well done.

    You'll see what I mean about the lip formed on the back side of the wall once you get to installing the corner trim, and this will illustrate the reason for the sanded bevel on the other opposing wall...Ken
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