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Duluth Plumbing Company
I've been meaning to post these pictures. At a train swap meet, I was able to buy a finished Duluth Plumbing Company model for $80. I didn't really appreciate what I had till joining this forum. I understand that the builder of this model lived in the tri-city part of Washington State and had passed away. He really did a great job building this model and his work will live on with my lay-out. This is the model that inspired me to look for a way to finish the castings, which led me to you guys. Enjoy the pictures. As you can see, there is a bit of repair work that will need to be done. Phil
Comments
DJ
It's good to see that after somebody spent all that time building the kit that it went to a good home where it will be appreciated for what it is, ( and not just stuck in an inlaws attic to gather dust, or worse!! )
Karl.A
Get a piece of 3/4" ply (or even 1/2" would work) and cut it to the same size as the base. Then use some liquid nails to stick that beauty down onto the solid base.
Personally I'd be afraid of that 3/8" foam core base warping/curling and ruining a great diorama. I'm not sure what the humidity and moisture is like where you live but it could have dire consequences on that base.
I once built a small (6"x8") N scale diorama on that foam core because I figured it was so small it would be OK, never again !!
Normally I would suggest 3/4" foam as a base but if the card backing on that foam core base decides to curl I'm not sure if the pliable foam would be strong enough to hold it flat.
Just a thought for you....
Incidentally Home Depot/Lowes sell smaller offcuts of plywood for a couple of dollars so you wouldn't need to buy a whole 4'x8' sheet if you don't have easy access to any.
Karl.A
Brett, I know you keep records. Any sale of this kit to a person in the tri-cities area of Washington (Kennewick, Pasco, and Richland)?
Karl, while I have you. When painting the castings, you will come across small gaps between the barrels on the shelves. What color should these gaps be - black?
Phil
If it's at the very beginning after priming I would paint the recesses black , the subsequent chalk colouring and then detail painting of the barrels will cover any "mistakes". The final chalk dusting will also tone down any harshness of the black and blend everything together. (very rarely do this)
If it is after the chalk colour of the shelves and the detals have been painted I generaly just use some A&I on a fine detail brush, I have the detail flat on it's back, then place the A&I specifically in the recesses, if some gets on the surrounding details it will flow into the recess and pool, thereby darkening the recess and adding a slight shadow to the adjacent raised detail.
That's the complicated answers, the easiest way is to swirl the (almost finished) casting in a jar of A&I on it's stick, lay it on it's back to dry, the A&I will pool in the recesses. Let dry well and then come in with a final chalk blending and any finishing touches you want to add.
Karl.A