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LineSide Storage Shed

edited January 2013 in HO Scale Builds
Have gotten underway with the congener to the Tool Shed....The LineSide Storage Shed. What a great little build this is and I really like the contrasting styles of the two. Brett's recommended coloring on the LineSide, which I used, is a nice compliment to the Tool Shed. I have taken pictures of the walls in various phases of completion and will follow with the five walls totally done. imageFront wall with just siding, no battens.imageRear wall with about half the battens installed.imageLeft wall with battens most of the battens installed. battens will be trimmed even with the top. Window frame not weathered/aged yet.imageCenter wall with top gable battens installed..gaps in siding will be covered by battens later.imageRight wall pretty much done....few little tweaks and it will be..
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Comments

  • Oops, rear wall with ALL battens installed and mostly done. Left wall will have a horizontal batten all the way across the top and overhanging each side by about a batten width.
  • Terrific start to the build Ken.
    Joints are all nice and tight and the texture looks good.
    You've really nailed that colour !!

    Karl.A
  • Great start Ken
  • All walls done!...don't mean to be redundant on the pics but I like looking at lots of pictures, hope you all do as well, and it helps me document my progress. Thanks for the comments and will post again with windows and doors completed. imageFront wall.imageRear wall.imageLeft wall.imageCenter wall
  • The more pictures the better Ken, especially when they look that good.

    Karl.A
  • I really like the color and texture of the walls. At the bottom of the walls the boards really look like they have wicked up water and have become rotten and darkened from water. Did you use alcohol and ink, black chalk, straight higgins ink or some combination? The effect is really excellent.
    Jim
  • Karl..Good, I was hoping that was the general sentiment. I plan to make a small note book of each build with Brett's manual, my notes on the prep used including colors, techniques, etc. and pictures of each build. Should make a nice reference for future projects.

    Jim..the board end effect as you described is just what I was after. I did this more on this LineSide build as it sits on the ground where the Tool Shed sits on a platform. The techniques I used was to weather each board and batten before I glue it to the framing by roughing up the ends by splitting the end, taking "chunks" out etc..then I darken the ends of each board individually with Rembrandt Raw Umber 408.3. Black was too dark and I didn't like it very well. I think treating each board as it goes on keeps things random. I dab on some chalk then soak it in with some pra. After all the boards and battens are on I follow with a dusting of Raw Umber 408.7 which gives it a decidingly greenish tone which simulates the damp, wet, mossy rot that develops. You'll notice I did this on the eaves as well to give it that dirty dusty look where grime gets concentrated between the roof and the siding. Doors and windows are in progress! Ken
  • Here are the walls with windows and doors installed.imageimageimageimage


  • Thanks for the color number of the chalk. I was trying to get your effect with alcohol and ink and black chalk yesterday and couldn't get the look. Black was too dark.
    Very cool technique. What is pra? The windows look great. Very nice dirty effect. Thanks for sharing your build. I keep learning alot from everyone. By the way there are some plans in Timber Times for logging layouts. I haven't seen them but they may be worth a look.
    Jim
  • Jim..I'm the same way, I was telling Karl how I bring up pics of one of his stellar dioramas and just study each picture for a long time and soak up all the subtile details.

    Brett coined the acronym "pra" which stands for just "plain rubbing alcohol" it thins, blends, soaks in, and somewhat fixes the chalk to the board ends. Key here is to not have a defining line between the treated and untreated boards end. A gradual fade.

    I have heard of Timber Times but have not seen an issue either. Will search it up!
    Thanks Jim...-K
  • Walls together and fence done....all that's left is the roofing and castings. imageimageimageimageimageimageimage
  • Ken, the walls, battons and fence really look great.
    Colour and texture are all really well done.

    To be honest I think you need to put more effort into the doors. They just look rushed.

    Karl.A
  • Ken your work is really looking good.

    I agree with Karl though. The doors look way too new and "easy to open" compared to the rest of the structure.

    The angled cuts at the top of some of the fence planks are a nice touch that i will be using in the future.
  • The doors prove more difficult to age other than using color and chalks. The laser cut sheets are adhesive backed and glued to a backing of equal thickness of the doors and are not board on board. Any holes or pieces missing would reveal this double thickness and would not look right. How would you age and stress these pieces? Brett does not have any comments regarding this in the manual. School me...class is in session! -K
  • Graining can be added to the laser board with a new #11 exacto blade.
    Many light strokes will add some grain effect giving depth and character to the door panels.
    I use this on the laser board windows also.

    The "Z' bracing could be treated the same way in the direction the grain would appear.

    Some heavier 'stiff' wire brushing along the bottom edges of the door panels will roughen up that clean cut look and again add depth and character.

    Re-colouring of the doors will then add darker contrast into the graining and bring them more in-line with the walls.

    Finally adding the darker colouration to the bottom of the doors, as you did so well with the walls will make them become part of the structure and not stand out as different.

    Also as a side note, a little darker chalk colouring around the door handles will depict useage and will also break up the currently monotonous colouring of the doors giving another subtle colour variation and level of depth.

    Karl.A
  • Sweet!....Just the response I was looking for Karl. Really great advise and opened my eyes to what can be done with the laser cut material. I wrote these off initially as "not much to do except coloring and chalking" Thanks and I really appreciate your taking the time to outline the treatment that can be undertaken on these guys. -K
  • Re-worked the doors. I think a big improvement.image
  • Ken, I agree the doors look much better now.

    Bob
  • The re-working of the doors looks good Ken,
    what's next?

    Karl.A
  • Bob..Thanks for the note, one of those light bulb moments after talking with Karl et.al.

    Karl..Thanks so much for the advise on this!

    Next...I'll post some pics of the finished build and castings. I have two classics that I want to do while I'm waiting on my Logging Camp Essentials and Loco & Service Shops kits that I have ordered, one is the Backwoods Water Tank and Storage Shed and the other is the Railroad Camp. Likely get on the Water Tank kit as the Railroad Camp is a good sized build and I'm slowly ramping up here!
  • Hi Ken,
    Fantastic job on the build. I really like the doors. I had no idea that your could make the doors look this way or scribe grain into the door stock. That is really cool idea Karl gave. Can't wait to see the water tank build. I don't have this kit and wish I did. Keep up the fantastic work.
    Jim
  • Jim, Yup, Karl really came through on that one. Thanks Alan.

    Here are pics of the finished LineSide. I'll post a couple pics next with all the castings next. They're done just didn't get them all together for the picture this time. Will be starting the Backwoods Water Tank build thread soon.

    Ken

    imageimageimageimageimage
  • Ken that looks awesome. The castings are really going to add to the buildings realism.
  • Very nice work, Ken. Good recovery on the door as it looks like it "belongs" and has aged along with the rest of the building.

    A couple suggestions for your next structure--
    It's easy to get heavy handed with nail holes (trust me...I excell at out of scale nail holes). The ones on the fence pickets look perfect to my eye. On the shed, they're starting to get too big.

    For tar paper roofs, I like to break up the perfectly straight lines between the rows with a few rips or tears. I'll take the strip of tar paper and a piece of fine sand paper or emory board and sand it down from the back (so, place it face down on your work surface and gently sand the back side of it). Focus on an area here and there so it wears through the edge leaving it uneven. I've sanded it from the front, but it usually comes out looking like a mistake that I tried to scuff off. Then, glue them down and add chalks and streaks.

    Minor details, for sure, and not meant to take away from the fine work you've demonstrated!

    Looking forward to the next one!
    Bill



  • Thanks Wes, casting pics are next. Can't wait to get going on a diorama as I' have been following you guys on your amazing work. Want to make sure I do the builds and castings adequately before the next step of dioramas and adding to my layout.

    Bill, love hearing from you and what a great technique on the tar paper. The edges would naturally get thinned and start tearing or wearing unevenly over time. I looked at my nail holes from the front on view and pictured myself to scale and I would have been able to walk up and poke my finger right through one of those holes! Thanks for reeling me in there. Saw your Twin Mills piece on the news spots...really nice to get recognized for the work you did and a gem of a build as well. -K
  • Really nice Ken. I said it before but I'll say it again.... you really nailed that siding colour. I need to come up with another structure for that colour tone......

    I'm looking forward to seeing your details.

    As a side note I'm currently scratchbuilding the water tank in O scale so I will be very interested to see your build of it here.

    Karl.A
  • Hey Karl, The siding color did turn out better than I had expected. I didn't want a stark red color but did want a subdued look in that flavor. Again, thanks for the tutelage on the doors. I have been mulling over the water tank build as I think the coloring of the stone pump house will set the stage for the rest of the build. I'm leaning towards a darker, maybe more brownish stone color than Brett illustrates on the web-site and box cover. Your thoughts....-K
  • Couple of shots of some of the castings temporarily "plopped" down.imageimageimage
  • Castings look good as does the overall placement
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