Logging and Tractor repair - Straight Up

Joel

Well I've decided to tackle the LTR. It is one of my all time favourite designs. The building is small but overloaded with character and junk. Just my style. Opening the box is a joy with tons of castings and small packets. I primed the "wooden" castings with earth. Look at all the metal details - 43 hammers! and a bunch of other hand tools to boot. I understand Brett is stopping production on this one but to me the casting set and two tractors are worth the entire price of the kit. Nough said I love this kit, now the question is doing it justice. When I really love a kit I pretty much build it as per the directions and I'm pretty sure this one will be like the photo on the box (if I'm up to the challenge).

Karl.A

After seeing your previous work in person Joel I have no doubt that you will do this next one justice.
Make sure to post lots of updates so we can all follow along and learn a trick or two.

Certainly as you say a great kit and I for one am looking forward to seeing what you do with it.

Karl.A

Wes

One of my all time favourites too Joel. I look forward to see what you do with it.

admin

Well this kit is very special to me... as many of you know Brian Nolan constructed the walls and roof panels for my pilot model. He mailed them flat to me and I assembled them. What a job he did! I am looking forward to your build Joel - you will do Bri proud for sure!

Joel

Ok some boring waiting and soaking. As much as I love the look I got just using chalk for my rigging shed and shipyard if Brian Nolan says to try this I got to try it. After soaking and drying the pieces I gave the siding pieces an initial brush with my big wire brush. I also painted the trusses and wall frames with earth and then a dusting of chalk to try and match the siding colour. This will be the final interior colour. I have some questions about the framing as the grain goes the wrong way in many pieces. I'm sure it will be hardly noticable in the finished model. I tried streaking the chalk in the direction of the "grain" but the effect was too subtle. A new solution was to take a .2mm black pen and draw in some subtle grain. See what you think. I'm not 100% convinced but I think it fools the eye pretty well.
Also while waiting for the wood to soak and dry I experimented with a couple of drums. The left one I used the hairspray method the right I just brushed with a wire brush and dabbed on some rust chalk. I think both are effective but the hairspray one is more time consuming.

admin

I think the subtle graining added to the tusses look great but keep in mind - The laser cut wall and roof sections all but disappear once the roof, details and scenery are added! As a manufacturer it is MUCH cheaper and faster to give you the templates (already provided) and a bundle of 4 x 4 stripwood and have you frame the sucker. BUT the laser handles the worst part of board on board for us and it does not affect the quality of the completed diorama. Brian was concerned when I first approached him and mentioned the laser cut wall frames but after seeing the completed diorama in person he quickly agreed they were of no concern. The laser cut wall framing discussion is totally different than the laser cut window discussion where wood grain running the wrong direction is terrible and easily seen on the completed model...

Joel

I tend to agree. I experimented with the trusses because, as you say they are hidden, if the effect was terrible then no harm done. Also I have to again agree that they make the assembly sooo much easier and wouldn't want to return to building board on board framing. I don't know if this extra 30sec of work will make any impact on the completed model but I won't know until I get there. Meanwhile it lets me sleep at night.

brownbr

I like your progress so far. I don't think I would worry about graining the trusses either. I might color them just a tad darker than the inside wall and call it good.

I noticed your brush. I tried one just like that and found it cumbersome. I found 2 sized of steel brushes-very stiff- at Home Depot in the welding section that are much easier to handle. Give it a try if you like.

PS. I very much appreciate the laser cut framing

Kevin

Hey Joel
I'm looking forward to this build. I did one long wall of this kit and could post a few pics for you if you don't mind. I would not bother to try to impart any grain on the interior framing as Brett says most of it will be hidden by details and shelves. Also if you look at a lot of interior pics of old prototype shops like this those the studs/framing did not always have a lot of grain.
Kevin

Joel

Kevin,
Always welcome to add any insight, tips or even better pictures.

I agree there should not be obvious grain indoors and also that most will be hidden but some of the pieces have obvious grain and it is going the wrong way. Either I sand them to remove the grain (which in retrospect sounds like a better idea) or I pull your eye away from those errant grain patterns by superimposing a clear/bold grain pattern.

Wow I can't believe a few scratches with a pen have got you guys commenting.

More pictures soon. The first wall is coming along....

Joel

Ok here is a small wall. I did the window frames but haven't added the battens yet. I used a coat of asphaltum (aging glaze from Loewes or a paint store) which pretty much mimics 403.8 chalk. Paint on and rub off. Then dry brush with tan and suede "Craftsmart" cheap craft paint. Note I didn't go all the way to the bottom of the wall to give the effect of some rot and mildew. You can really see the effect of the asphaltum there. I may do a building where I just use this stuff as it leaves a nice colouring.

admin

looks awesome - graining, darker board bottoms, knots, all are right on....

Karl.A

Incredible looking wall Joel.
I think I'm gonna take up knitting instead...
But before I do that I'm going to get some of that there asphaltum stuff to try out.

Karl.A

Kevin

Hey Joel
The wall looks fantastic!! I have a few pics of a long wall that I did mostly with the "dry chalk method". A few boards look too light in color but can easily be made to match the others with a couple of swipes with darker colors. I read Daves article on his 1/35th Tractor/repair shed and tried to match his interior coloring with some Minwax stain. I will go over all of the inside with dark umber chalks to dirty it up some but that is all I will bother to do.

OM (Kevin)

Joel

Stunning detail and colouring on the walls Kevin. Hard to believe it's all dry chalk. Love the natural variation in shading. Amazing.
Only real question is why you would have stopped building? Golf can't be that great a hobby...

Karl.A

From what I understand....
when Kevin was much younger he played alot of football,
after that he played alot of softball,
now it seems that he tends to prefer golf.
It would seem therefor that as he has gotten older his balls have gotten smaller.

Of course, this 'observation' in no way detracts from the fantastic modeling he can produce when he finally gets his butt sat down at the modelling desk.

Karl.A

Wes

Wow. Both those walls look fantastic Joel and Kevin.

Guess ill have to take up another hobby too. Knitting sounds like a good idea Karl.

minion

From what I understand....
when Kevin was much younger he played alot of football,
after that he played alot of softball,
now it seems that he tends to prefer golf.
It would seem therefor that as he has gotten older his balls have gotten smaller.

Of course, this 'observation' in no way detracts from the fantastic modeling he can produce when he finally gets his butt sat down at the modelling desk.

Karl.A

Karl ,

He'll be playing marbles next .

minion

Ok here is a small wall. I did the window frames but haven't added the battens yet. I used a coat of asphaltum (aging glaze from Loewes or a paint store) which pretty much mimics 403.8 chalk. Paint on and rub off. Then dry brush with tan and suede "Craftsmart" cheap craft paint. Note I didn't go all the way to the bottom of the wall to give the effect of some rot and mildew. You can really see the effect of the asphaltum there. I may do a building where I just use this stuff as it leaves a nice colouring.

Excellent looking wall , Joel . Have you thought about a bit of green at the bottom to age it a bit more , and to give it some more colour . Just a thought ,

Nick

Joel

Thanks Nick. Do you have a favourite green? I'm not above trying any new technique.

This is a quick pic of the almost completed wall. I decided to do all the battens as 1X2s.
Not sure why but it looked good to my eye. The one crooked board is held in place by three rusty nails which are protruding. They are .006 brass wire which is probably twice the diameter of a real nail (it is 1/4 inch) but I wanted the effect. Sorry no nail heads.

now on to the windows. I have decided to add hinges but yet to experiment with "how"

minion

Joel ,

Check out a relatively new range of paints and stains made by the Spanish company AK Interactive . They are aimed at the military modelling lot but they definitely have a place in our little world . They are available in The States but I don't recall off hand where from .
I don't have a favourite green as such , I usually use what is to hand , but obviously you don't want anything too garish . I suggest you do some experiments with different shades . You could also try chalks or pigment powders . I guess the watchword would be " experiment" to see what works for you .

I also suggest seeing if you can find any buildings in real life which might give you some ideas . Where I live , in the UK , there are loads of buildings to look at as we have a pretty damp climate and mold likes to grow every where . But it might be different where ever you are .

Hope that is of some help ,

Nick

Kevin

Hey Joel
It's Mr. Chalkman here. I use Rembrandt olive green 620.3. I brush a very small amount aong the bottom of the boards and blend it upwards. Only the slightest hint of green should show and if it's too much just go over it with some black or whatever color/tone your siding is. You really should try these chalks Joel, you would be a natural with them.

Kevin

MikeM

http://www.michtoy.com/michtoy_search_products.php?Types=Paint, Glues and Finishing Supplies&Categories=Washes, Pigments and Effects&Vendor_ID=AK Interactive- Modeling Supplies&action=listing

Joel

OK so far by far the trickiest and most time consuming step - the windows. I essentially followed Brett's directions except I got glue everywhere the first time so I started lying down the "glass" and then touching the corner with a toothpick dipped in ACC. The glu wicked up and I didn't mar any other surfaces. I used the same technique with the 1X2's on top of the glass. Held in place then glued on the edges then the edges were repainted to match. My insanity has started to show with the hinges. This is a strip of paper 2" (scale) wide that I then cut into 2" squares. At first I glued the .006 blacken brass bar to the strip of paper then cut out a bunch of hinges with my rail nippers. Unfortunately the brass bar became loose during cutting or fitting so I just add the bar after the hinge plates are installed.
Here is my first atempt. First wall completed. Yay!!

brownbr

Your windows were worth the effort, and the hinges add a nice touch.

Wes

Great work Joel. I love the rusty hinges. They look great.

Joel

Well done wall #2. so far so good. I tried a bit of green on the bottom and really liked it. May have liked it too much. I might tone it down a bit.

davej

I like the green I think it's very subtle in the photos.

Bill

Amazing! Given the work by both of you guys so far, I'd say this is gonna be THE thread to watch. Hinges, aging glaze, mold & mildew!!

Are you guys are still taking requests?
Let's see some termite damage! (that should stump 'em)

Wes

I think its nice and subtle too. What type of green did you use Joel?

admin

looking really good there... the green looks right - subtle enough not to overpower but distinct enough to add detail to the wall