My Second Sierra West Model

Karl.A

Looking good Randy, nice colours and variation so far, also neat and precise construction.

randyp

Thanks Robert, I did not plan to put in nail holes on the platform. But I will keep your excellent suggestion in mind for the future. Randy

TomMich

Coming along nicely!

randyp

Thanks Karl and Tom I appreciate it. I set up both sides of the center wall last night. The only not glued in place are the ones setting on the floor.
When I glue thing to the floor I will straighten up the red oil can.
The inside of the wall also is not totally finished. I still need to glue the things to the floor and the bottom shelf. I did not leave enough space between the second and bottom shelf to put what I wanted to put on the bottom shelf.
Now a more side view showing the shelves better and the beautiful drill mounted on the wall. I still need to add the light and figure out how to run the wire for said light.

randyp

Back last summer I mentaded that I had some thin cigar box cedar inserts. Karl suggested I set them out to weather. This is what they looked like in June.
They just about blew off the roof a few days ago when it was so windy here in St. Louis. So I took them down and I think they will now do for the shake shingles on the water tank and handcar repair shed roofs. What do the rest of you think?
Thanks for your input, Randy

MuddyCreekRR

Color looks good....are they brittle at all?

Karl.A

They look quite good and grey to me, I said it wouldn't take too long and be done.
You might need to wet them and set them under a pile of books/weights to flatten them out again.
You also might want to tone down those nail/screw heads a bit, they stand out too much...

randyp

Art I have not handled the wood yet so I don't know. I will let you know. Karl thanks for the suggestion about wetting them and putting them under weights. I though some light gray chalk in alcohol would town down the screw head. Thanks Randy

KKarns

Great looking detailed scene Randy. The drill press is just ridiculous! That one shot looked like a washing machine in the back room!

randyp

Thanks Ken, always good to hear a word praise from all the great modelers on this form.
I guess you are talking about the 123 block that shows up through the door. Thanks Randy

brownbr

Nice color on the wood.

randyp

If you are talking about the cedar it is all natural. Now all I need to do is get it grained and cut to size. Right now it is soaking in water and will be placed between sheets of paper and newspaper under weight to flatten out. Yes Art, it is brittle but I thing that will work to my advantage when cutting the shingles to width. Thanks, Randy

Karl.A

Cut the sheets into shingle width first, with(following) the grain, then cut those strips to shingle length.

randyp

Thanks Karl for the advise. I guess I should grane the sheets first before I cut them into strips. Thanks, Randy

Karl.A

I cut them into strips first and then treat them just as you would regular strip wood, graining a few at a time. If thats even needed.
That way you can get variations between the boards/strips, I find it more controllable to get different effects in specific boards and areas.
After that just follow the regular instructions and treat the strips like they are strip wood,
cut them to shingle length, weather and colour the ends..etc

Karl.A

Not many builds have real, naturally weathered, true cedar shingles... that's something special.

CarlLaskey

This will be a treat.

randyp

Thanks Karl, the wood is drying out between sheets of printer paper and newspaper under weights. I don't know about that Carl but it will be an experience. Randy

randyp

I am not quite ready to color the rock walls on the pump house. I did do a trial run on a an S scale Yorke kit I have. I used Liquitex artist acrylic paints to color the rocks on this model. I used yellow oxide, burnt sienna, raw umber,burnt umber and raw sienna for the colors. These are the same colors I use to stain the rock castings on my layout.
I would like to here the opinion of the forum. Thanks Randy

MuddyCreekRR

You are right to try and keep the stonework on your layout consistent as if that's the color of stone in the ground...it doesn't clash. I had planned to use mainly grey rock work on the layout, but I went with the browner earth tone on my pumphouse....so I will need to follow that scheme on the layout. I was hesitant to have the entire structure in grey tones.....so that the way I went. No problem...I can mix in some grey here and there....I like your colors and tones...

randyp

Thanks Art,I appreciate your input. Randy

KKarns

The colors give a nice desert SW feel but applicable anywhere…

brownbr

Reminds me of sandstone.

Karl.A

Looking good Randy, same colours as what I use, but, I did stop using the yellow ochre many years ago as I felt it stood out from the others more than I liked.
A nice variation though.

randyp

Ken,Bryan, and Karl thanks. Ken, My Layout is set in SW Colorado, Salida to Silverton so I am glad you think the colors are appropriate. Bryan, I was thinking more in the terms of granite. And Karl, I use the Burnt Sienna and Yellow Oxide sparingly and then gover all the surfaces with a light wash of Raw Umber tone everything down and darken the mortar lines. Thanks for your comments. Randy

Karl.A

Well, maybe it will look different after you have done that then. It's all about personal preference and of course things look different in person, that's one of the beauties in this hobby.
I'm looking forward to the next update.

Joel

Randy looks great. Love the interior. With stone walls I will usually dry brush a neutral light colour at the end to tone everything down and also highlight the stone detail. Not everyone does this but I find it helps unify the colours.

randyp

Karl and Joel, I am not sure about the final color. The Kilz makes the paint thinned with water bead up. This is the back of the pump house which will not be seen.
I think I will try some wet water to mix the paint, on the next wall. This is hindering me in getting the color blending that I am use to with plaster.
I also did the wood for the tank. I colored the wood with 408.3 and 408.5 chalk and alcohol. then added some gray to the bottom end of the boards.
The tank bands were base painted black and the dabbed and brushed with dark, medium and light rust paint. Brett's paper guides for the bands work like a charm. After the bands were glued to the tank I used some rust colored chalk dry brushed on the bands and below them to show rust washing down from the bands.
I am happy with the way the tank and bands turned out. As usual all comments and suggestions are appreciated. Thanks, Randy

MuddyCreekRR

Randy they look really good....the varied tones of rust really make it look right.....the evidence of rust on the boards below looks kool...Nice Job...

MuddyCreekRR

On the stone work...you could try using some chalk to get the coloration you are looking for...if you seal it with a workable chalk fixative...you can save the work you like...then continue to work the tones....