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Lineside maintenance and supply facility....AKA....my build of Kit #315.....

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Comments

  • Thanks Ken...I plan to just vary up a few bricks...not to many....
  • Walls look good like the shades of brown. Randy
  • I have talked with Evans Design in the past about the gooseneck lamps. They have to feed the wire before they bend the conduit. Otherwise feeding the wire through is almost impossible .......Rick
  • Drill is great. The colors on the stone is coming together.

    Did you use a jig to make the gooseneck?
  • Bought them made from Evans Design LED lighting.....only $5 and $6 each....
  • I second that. randy
  • Rick....it was a pain in the butt.....but I threaded the one I took apart back thru....but I doubt I'll take it apart again. The positionable shade and escuthceon plate are neat....hopefully photos installed soon...
  • The stone and brick on that casting look fantastic, great job painting.

    I'm trying to make my own gooseneck lamps for my Truck Repair without much success. Can't seem to bend the tubing without it kinking. I tried to make a tubing bending jig and use heat but still no luck. I think I'm going to have to order some from Evan as well. I can make the pendant lights, but those goosenecks are very difficult.

    I usually use 30AWG manget wire for my conductor but I have some 38AWG and soldered some LEDs to that. I can't believe how much dimmer they are than when using the 30AWG. It must add quite a bit of resistance with the wire being so much smaller. I spoke with Dave at Evan Design, and he said the goosenecks are wired with 32AWG so hopefully they will be pretty close in brightness to what I've already installed.
  • Jim and Art, Have you checked out eginerring.com website? There is a tutorial under tubing section about how to bend the tubing. Threading wires through bent tubing is ALMOST impossible. I did it one time but it took about two hours. I then did the straight tube and bent the tube after the wires were in place. I then pulled the wires back a little from the straight end of the tube and used a cut off disk to shorten the tube to lingh. there wires were then pushed back out the straight end of the tube. I hope this helps. Randy
  • Randy, thanks I'll check that out.
  • There is a set of wire strippers out there on the market that have jigs for bending tubing. The wall thickness on the tubing used here is so thin, it will most likely kink before bending. I have a plan for mine to make it work that will make more sense when I post the photos in I hope a week or so....life has been pulling me out of the shop far too often....
  • Finally found a bit of time to get into the shop....but a big issue is I have a wee bit too much clutter not just on the table....but the storage areas too, so tomorrow will be a de-clutter day so I can model with no frustration. I wasn't going to post these photos, because there's a lot to fix in a few spots. I said I was going to deviate slightly from the manual....and I would post photos of what and why. So check out the 2 shots....and I will explain....SW water tank floor overveiw
    SW Water Tank Floor with walls
  • Glad to see you made some time at the bench Art , and it paid off with great progress, the grey decking is a nice shade.

    Yeah, de-clutter, something I need to do again.

    Great progress so far and I look forward to seeing your 'deviations' as they progress.
  • The open middle area I have planned to either have my CHB Denver handcar or the velocipede on sunken into the floorboard rails....hence the floor having the 2 white slots open. Once I plant it on the foam base....I'll add the rails....The shed floor is as per the manual....but the open area I extended out both front and back a bit...the front to almost meet the rails of the track...and the rear just a bit to reach the rails I'll have for the repair area. I let them run long for now and will trim later.....at least that's my plan. There's no wethering or added detail to the wood floor yet....hopefully I'll get some of that done tomorrow. walls are not glued just "balanced delicately"....
  • Thanks Karl....I was happy to get some stuff done....its too cold to work outside ( mid 30's)....so I will be inside...in the shop....with an adult beverage or few the next couple of nights....I also had a thought to leave the tank open with simulated water...but I really like the way yours is coming along with the shingles. The lighting is going to slow me down a bit too.
  • edited November 2022
    And speaking of the lighting....here is the size difference of the HO/S and O scale goosenecks from Evans Designs....nice detail for about $6.00 each....Standard size toothpick for comparison (I had no coins in my pocket).... SW Water Tank Lights
  • edited November 2022
    Thanks Art, I'm right with you on the cold outside and a beverage inside at the bench.
    The shallow pitch of the shingled tank roof really fits the size of the overall structure well.
    I have my lighting planned out, on the KISS method, but that's some way down the road for me, I'll be looking forward to seeing yours.
  • I like the idea of sunk rails.

    I also appreciate that you and Karl are right at this point of your builds together. I've been struggling with this part in my mind as I plan on some variation on the layout of the structures. Been most helpful to see your placement here.
  • Coming along really well Art. Love your attention to these details.
  • When I was out west for the Sacramento NNG I was at a logging railroad and saw a section house that had that setup...these hand cars are light enough to lift onto and off the rails...I just wanted to have that type of setup. As the title of my thread states...this is going to be a group of SW structures mixed in with a few scratch-built to depict a backwoods maintenance facility....the rear of the shed will eventually work into this as you will soon see...
  • Decided to work on the tank platform and water tank itself....mainly to start getting the tone of the weathering to jive. I went too dark on the tank....but I have a way to fix that using the dark areas to do similar to what Karl did. Never trust the label on any pre-made stain. It will come out ok.
    SW Water Tank floor weatered
  • Did a little detailing with some chips and gouges in the floor and the tank platform....and a little chalk toning....more will come as I start adding details....
  • Thats looking so good Art,
    I'm really liking the colouring of your deck/floor boards, that aged grey is a wonderful base for what you have coming for us to enjoy seeing next.

    As for the tank being too dark, white chalk might be a good friend for you, now, i know, white may seem too stark, but if used judiciously it will pick up the base colour when rubbed in and get 'grimy' while also lightening up those areas you feel are too dark and take on the base colour while lightening it up and keeping the base tone.

    The tank platform variations and colour look spot on, I look forward to seeing how you blend it into the tank when you get the tank how you like it.

    Keep those great updates coming.

  • I have already done a little work with actually a light grey chalk....and I will take your advice with the white too.....I decided to use a Hunterline light blue gray stain....that obviously wasn't....I'll get it right.....Thanks...
  • Wonderful progress. Love the way everything is coming together.

    Never been a fan of the "pre-made" stains. You'll get it right for sure!
  • I've used the "pre-made" many times...I am a big fan of your chalk process and it is the one I use I'd say 90% of the time. I tend to use the other for small stuff and touch ups. The stain I wanted to use on the tank I used before....but upon examination I realized I have 2 bottles of it....and the one I used yesterday was way darker than the one I had used before. Lesson learned. Always test before you commit...That being said....I spent about an hour with a brass brush, and the rougher plumbers brush "removing" the majority of the dark stain. I still need to work on a few spots....and I'm going to try the white chalk to even out the color....I'm not unhappy with the way it looks now...any opinions? I will add some darker tone on the bottom similar to Karls tank.... SW Water Tank fixed
  • I think I need to get the shed and stone structure onto the base...just need to get the details onto the 2 walls.....I shall endeavor to get to that in the next day or 2....
  • i think the water tank look really good. i wouldn't change a thing on it.;
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