not the sharpest Tool in the Shed

TomMich

Turned out great! Thanks for sharing the technique.

brownbr

If you do end up using the chipping fluid, you need to think about any further weathering you do. You can use enamels with no problem. If you use water or alcohol for a wash, you will want to seal the area with something like Dulcote first. Otherwise you will reactivate the chipping fluid.

Karl.A

Also remember ...

if you put alcohol (or A/I ) over dulcoat... the alcohol will react and it will turn the dulcoat to a white hazy chalky finish.

kebmo

Karl.A said:

Also remember ...

if you put alcohol (or A/I ) over dulcoat... the alcohol will react and it will turn the dulcoat to a white hazy chalky finish.

that used to frustrate the hell out of me when i modeled n scale. dpm buildings would turn white on me and i had no idea why. but that was why.

Karl.A

It is frustrating indeed Kev.
It can be used carefully as a technique to model hard water deposits on something like a water tank.
But not something you would want unexpectedly on something like a structure.

Luckily you can reverse it....

MuddyCreekRR

I've had good luck with using matte artists fixative. It seals well...and is made to allow more chalk work......

brownbr

Good to point that out Karl. I forgot about that little chemical reaction.

Muddy, I've grown fond of matte fixative also. Have a can of matte and semi-gloss on hand from Vallejo or AK.

I was trying to match the color of the painted wood with chalks for the rest of the structure. I think this is close enough. Did 1 side darker than the other for inside/outside.

I think that's Ken's trademark thumb.

KKarns

I’d give a thumbs up emoji if I had one! Looking mighty fine Bryan.

Karl.A

brownbr said:

Good to point that out Karl. I forgot about that little chemical reaction.

Alot of modellers end up in that situation and they don't know why, thinking the model is ruined and no way back. Hands in the air, walk away in disgust... However, it's not the catastrophic situation they imagine... (yes, I've stripped a few models in the past due to this reaction, before I figured out how to 'fix' it. )

A little known and super secret technique I discovered to get out of this situation is to simply respray the part/item/detail with dullcoat again.
This will re-dissolve the white residue caused by the alcohol wash reaction and turn it back to a clear flat finish again, thus taking you back to where you were.

Pros - the model isn't ruined and you can move on, also you can learn how to use this to your advantage in certain situations.

Cons - too many repeated spray coats will fill in minute details on Brett's (SWSM) amazing details.
(not really an issue for a wall such as Bryans).

Hope this helps.

Karl. A

Karl.A

Really liking that grey colour and shades you are getting Bryan, a great look. Also the construction is super tight and neat.

Looking forward to what you show us next.

brownbr

I'm liking the gray also Karl. Here's how we got here.

Color pallet is Rembrandt dark gray 707.3, dark brown 409.3 and light gray 707.8. For one side I used 707.3 as the main color with a touch of the other 2, for the other side I used 707.8 as main with touch of the other 2. On both sides I washed color in then added 704.8 and 100.5 on top and brushed that in also.

I let these completely dry and you get the first 2 boards on the left. Then brush out the grain with a brass brush and give 2-3 light passes with 220 grit paper: middle 2 boards. Follow this with a coat of AI and a 2nd pass with the sand paper to finish it up. 2 boards on right.

After brushing out the grain, you will have a bunch of chalk dust to use for touchups. It perfectly matches the color of the boards.

These are the brushes I use. A very stiff steel brush to really dig into the wood...only brush 1 direction (towards end of board) so you don't break too many boards. A light steel brush to bring out more of the smaller grain. And the brass brush as mentioned before.

By the way, I do appreciate that this kit has lumber described as scale 1X10, etc. I'm not a fan of the .020 X 3/32 descriptions.

CarlLaskey

Very nice Bryan I am also a fan of 1x10 and it would be great in HO.
Have a Good Weekend.

vietnamseabee

Bryan…looks great. Really appreciate the methodology explanation
Terry

KKarns

Nice results Bryan.

TomMich

Texture, knots and color variations in those boards are very nice. I also would prefer scale measurements such as 1x10 instead of the other measurements. I'm building an FSM kit now and it's cumbersome trying to figure out the boards. I have to refer back to the chart each time.

ALCO

I use a digital caliper to find a specific wood size when multiple sizes are mixed together like in a bag or in a mess on my work surface.

SteveF

Bryan - Thank you for the detail explanation of weathering and coloring the strip wood. I really enjoy seeing everyones different techniques. I'm especially impressed with the gray color tones. Great job.

brownbr

Thanks guys. It's always interesting to see other peoples steps in the process.

The walls are assembled and test fitted. I noticed a couple of items to clean up like the length of trim over the double doors and the height of the tracked door. But nothing major stuck out to me. I'll put these to the side for a while and work on the deck next.

kebmo

well that looks sufficiently weathered! reminds me of an old livery barn that used to be in the town i grew up in.

CarlLaskey

Very nice Bryan.

KKarns

Coming along nicely. Love the steel sliding door track, such a nice detail.

TomMich

Walls turned out great. Really like the distressing on the boards.

brownbr

Thanks guys.

I'm test fitting a roof here. Went through a few trials before I got the sag the way I wanted it. It think this will work. Adjusted the front door also.

kebmo

what an appropriate structure for a sagging roof. this is gonna look great.

SteveF

I agree! That sag is such an integral part of the feel of the overall building aesthetic. The front door detail and weathering adds so much personality to building.

Karl.A

Nicely done Bryan, subtle, and yet very effective.
Perfect for that structure.

KKarns

looking good Bryan. Great that you are posting pics at this stage.

brownbr

Thanks guys.

Ken, I like seeing how others troubleshoot construction in their builds so I wanted to include this here.

Karl, as you can see I went with option 2 here. As I was test fitting I was able to determine that the underside of the roof would not be visible. I will trim out the end of the cardboard so the edges are covered and put in a false rafter bottom inside so that part can be seen through the door.

I see a crooked support post under the deck by the double doors. Guess I should address that also.

kebmo

speaking of the deck, at this stage its far more pristine than the structure. are you planning to grunge it up?

brownbr

Good eye Kevin. The deck will get a treatment for sure. I added some worn spots where the double doors would open. I'll add IA to darken around the base of the structure. Then once I decide on detail placement, further grunging will take place to represent oil spills, paint accidents, gouges from equipment, etc.