O'Neills Fabrication - HO Scale - An in-depth tutorial for building SWSM kits

KKarns

That’s the key “I still enjoy” as long as you can say that, you’re doing it right!

KCSTrains

Time for an update. I'm working on the Main Building Drive Under Canopy. Need to cut quite a few rafters. I found that if you use two-sided tape, you can make more consistent cuts.



Below is a sequence of building the canopy.






Pretty straight forward. Once this is completed, you need to locate the tarpaper you previously produced and cut pieces, using the template. The key here is to locate the breaks in the tarpaper at different locations.





Once you have the tarpaper in position, you need to use several shades of grey chalk and weather the tarpaper.



Now, for the fun stuff. Locate your extra pieces of corrugated metal and wood and place on top of the canopy. There is not one right way to do it. Use your creativity to make it look like you want. Below is my creation.



Next time: Building the Drive Under Canopy Support.

Thanks for following. Phil

sdrees

Very nice looking work Phil. I like the corrugated metal roofing effects and the asphalt roofing.

KCSTrains

Thanks Steve.

Continuing to build all the support structures. I'm now working on the drive under canopy support. Again, always use your stripwood guides and double-sided tape to keep things square.

You first build the front view support structure.




Then you place the front view structure upside down on the template to add the bottom view structure. I went ahead and added the cross beam to make it more stable.



The toughest part is adding the bottom view beams. However, as you will see I had a little help to make sure the beam remained at the right angle.



Then it's a matter of adding the side braces. Be sure you are at 90 degrees on all sides as you add the side bracing.



The end result.



Now, it's time to switch to template E.

Next time: Motor Sump Drive Through Canopy

Thanks for following. Phil

Robert.G

With great interest I might add....

admin

Awesome job Phil. I love this part of the build!

Mountaingoat

The open spindley look always catches the eye. Looking great as always......Rick

KCSTrains

Thanks Robert, Brett and Rick.

I've now moved to building the Motor Oil Sump Drive Through Canopy. It's just like building the last canopy, but you will use Template E instead. Be very careful that you place the rafters in the right direction. The more pointy end goes against the stripwood guide.



When adding the stringers, you will need to make certain marks on two of them. These marks will aid in adding the corrugated pieces in the next step.



So I wouldn't forget, I glued the marked stringers on first.



Then I added the rest of the stringers.



Now, it's time to add the corrugated panels. You should have saved these panels from the last time you worked with them. They should already be primed and ready to weather. I did my usual rust paint job. I didn't spend a lot of time with each panel because I knew I would finish up the weathering once all the panels were in place.

Make sure you start by gluing the first panel on the stringer opposite the roof side of the structure. BTW, I use canopy glue to put on my panels because ... well ... it's a canopy!!!
Get it!!!. LOL Actually, I like the canopy glue because it is flexible. Also, I use a lot of glue because any excess glue will be on the bottom of the canopy and will not show. I also put a weight on the panels after gluing and make sure the glue is dry before starting the next row of panels. Just be sure to follow Brett's instructions about the overlap of each panel.



Here is my finished canopy. I intentionally didn't want each panel to perfectly line up with each other to make it more authentic.



Next time: Motor Oil Sump Drive Through Support.

Thanks for following. Phil

brownbr

The staggered panels add interest

KCSTrains

Thanks Brian.

I'm now working on the Motor Oil Sump Drive Through Support. This involves multi-dimensional building, which can be difficult. However, this is where Brett's detailed instructions are wonderful and ensures everything is square. The purpose of my pictures is to add to what is already in the manual. Let me walk you through the steps.

First, you need to build two sump supports on template E.



Second, you need to take the sump supports and spot them on the assembly - left view drawing and add a header and braces.



Third, you need to build the drive through support. The amount of siding is up to you.



Fourth, we are ready to put everything together. Here is what you need.



Fifth, spot the drive through support to the template using the assembly - top view drawing. You will need your stripwood guides, machinist square, and 1,2,3 blocks.



Sixth, using the cardboard assembly supports, glue a header to the drive through support. Be sure the header meets the support in the right location. DO NOT glue the header to the cardboard support. Let dry before going to the next step.



Seventh, glue the other header to the drive through support. Again, let dry.



Eighth, glue the sump support to the cross headers. Again, make sure the header hits the sump support at the right spot.



Finally, remove the cardboard supports and add four braces.





Easy Peasy!! Thanks Brett. The manual suggests adding signs at this time, but I am going to wait until this assembly is in place. The signs will be on the beams and I can see myself knocking them off as I move the assembly around.

Next time: The Tower Dock

Thanks for following. Phil

EmeryJ

Have not commented much, but still following along intently. Thanks for sharing this with us Phil!! It really is a heck of a nice model coming together.

kebmo

you're doing a great job on a great kit.

Karl.A

Great update Phil, excellent construction by yourself and as always a concise description of what makes these kits the best available.
Un-rivalled instructions and guidance by Brett, followed and executed flawlessly by yourself. Perfect combination.

Mountaingoat

Great build Phil. Your warning is correct. I'm the guy who turns to look away and bump the assembly resulting in a few choice words and the need to repair the damage. That said, your precision is fabulous and added instructions really help......Rick

KCSTrains

Thanks guys. I really appreciate it. Phil

sdrees

You are doing a great job with your tutorial Phil.

KCSTrains

Thanks Steve.

kebmo

Mountaingoat said:

Great build Phil. Your warning is correct. I'm the guy who turns to look away and bump the assembly resulting in a few choice words and the need to repair the damage. That said, your precision is fabulous and added instructions really help......Rick

i wish i had $1 for everything i've snapped off with a dumb move. i bet i could buy a ...........

Pappy

Great Job Phil, looking forward for your updates

KCSTrains

Thanks Kevin and Pappy. Phil

KCSTrains

We now progress to the Tower Dock. We've done this before in the earlier parts of this build, so you can go back and review. Start with 1/32 x 5/64" strip wood and build the frame. Brett makes this super easy if you build it in the sequence he suggests on the template (see the numbers in the picture).



Now, it's time for the decking. As I've told you before, the chopper makes it very easy to cut multiple cuts of the same length. Start by measuring one of the pieces of decking. In this case, we want the decking to extend beyond the frame by 1/32." I do this by cutting the decking next to the framing.



Once you are satisfied with the length, take the stripwood to the chopper and set the guide to its length as shown below.



Now you can quickly cut the number of pieces you need to complete the short part of the deck.



Once you are done with the short length, repeat the above procedure for the longer length. You only need to weather one end of the decking, so take the time to make the ends look a bit frayed and weathered.

Next we start with the installation of the dock legs, my least favorite thing to do. However, it is a bit easier if (1) you make sure all of the legs are the same length, (2) each end is squared, and (3) you work slowly with a few legs at a time and let them dry before going to the next legs. This time it is a bit easier also because you have the frame to help keep the legs straight.



Here is my dock with all the legs in place. I want you to notice two things. First, the weathering on the ends. I roughed up the ends and applied AI three separate times to get the look I wanted. Second, the slight discoloration between the boards to give the decking a bit more depth. This trick was a Ken Karn's suggestion, which is really effective. You get the look by slightly sanding the edge of each deck piece.



Finally, just follow Brett's instruction and add the railing.



To make sure everything was right, I placed the deck against the tower. It's fits perfectly.



Next time: The O'Neills Motor Oil Tank Truss Assembly

Change templates to Template A. Thanks for following. Phil

Robert.G

That dock looks GREAT !!!!!

KCSTrains

Thanks Robert. Phil

Mountaingoat

Fantastic work and instruction again!....Rick

Joel

Love the dilapidated siding. Looks great.

KCSTrains

Thanks Rick and Joel. Phil

brownbr

Great color variation on the deck

KCSTrains

Thanks Brian.

Karl.A

Rotted, cracked, split clapboard yellow siding looks great and matches the aged white peeled vertical siding in age and deterioration perfectly, it all belongs together. Along with the aging on the deck boards it all looks as though it has been neglected and abused perfectly for the same amount of time.

I know it's a small thing, and you're not finished yet, but,
one suggestion, if I may ?

KCSTrains

Karl, I am always open for a suggestion. What is it? Phil