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Scotia Supply III

1235713

Comments

  • Well you dog! Congrats there Steve, well done. Hey don't knock it that's about my modeling speed!

    Regarding the web-site...that's a great idea and I thought of doing the same thing a time or two. I should get with you when I'm ready to pull the trigger on it to get some pointers.
  • What is the link to Steve’s website?
    Terry
  • Terry, the address is Scalemodelworkshop.com

    My Scotia and O’Neills builds are in the completed section.
  • Wow....very nice, Steve....some bodacious modeling there and a nice variety of kit manufacturers
    Terry
  • edited February 2020
    I have been working on the foundation and diorama base. I plan to detail the interior of the side building and as a result will be having the loading dock doors on the end almost fully open. Issue is, there is not enough room at the end of the resin casting for the doors to be open. In the following picture the pencil lines are where the open doors would be which leaves only a small portion of the dock to work with (figure 1.)

    IMG_7338

    (figure 1.) Note pencil marks at end of doors if positioned open.

    I decided to carefully cut the resin casting and make a new loading dock with the extra length I need (figure 2.) I am also putting in a set of stairs in the back leading from the back door I installed down to the loading dock. The stair landing will attach to the loading dock so I had to make the new dock a bit wider as well as longer. I made the new dock out of 3/4 inch styrafoam (figure 3.)

    IMG_7339

    (figure 2.) Loading dock separated from the foundation.

    IMG_7340

    (figure 3.) New loading dock from 3/4 inch styrafoam. Note the wider as well as longer dimension. I decided to sink the completed dock down into the foam diorama base to the appropriate height as per original. I am planning some areas of elevation change around the dock so this allows me to carve away the foam diorama base up to the dock anywhere and the finished foam of the dock will be exposed creating the effect of the dock concrete being quite thick top to bottom.

    Here is a technique I developed to weather foam board to look like deteriorated and worn concrete. I carefully paint, in my case it was Floquil Concrete, the edges of the foam board. The petroleum distillates begin to effectively eat away at the foam board creating a very convincing deteriorated concrete look (figure 4.)

    IMG_7334

    (figure 4.) Portion of foam board with Floquil Concrete lightly painted on and allowed to eat away at the foam. The coat of paint should be done very lightly to control the amount of dissolving. I paint some areas and leave other surfaces without it to give the apperance that some of the smooth surface is retained.

    IMG_7424

    Here is a different side of the same foam board with preliminary coloring done.

    IMG_7420

    Finished top surface of the new loading dock. This was first colored with various colors of craft paint in mostly grays and earth tones followed by chalk and AI weathering until the right amount of grunge was obtained.
  • edited February 2020
    Foundation and foam loading dock installed in and on the diorama base. Splotched paint on resin foundation will not show and is covered by the main building.

    IMG_7437
  • VERY convincing concrete !!!
  • Good idea Ken
  • Thanks Roberet, particularly coming from the "concrete" master!

    Carl, Actually developed it by accident when trying to paint foam with the "oil" based paint. I started painting a piece and of course ruined it when the paint ate right into it. But I liked the texture it left. I then started experimenting with very light applications, it became a nice technique. Best used when you are going to see a good bit of the vertical surface and edges. I think it would be too rough and worn for a horizontal surface.
  • unless your trying to replicate my 50 yr old patio......
  • Great coloring on the concrete.
  • edited February 2020
    Do you get an audible "terrain, terrain, terrain" warning when you go out on your patio Kevin? lol.

    Thanks Bryan. Just one of those play around until you get the look you want kind of projects.
  • looks amazing!
  • no,but you could sprain an ankle with all the spalling....
  • Hey Brett, thanks much. When we discussed the back stairs, the last pic shows the concrete dock extending beyond the back edge of the foundation. The stairs will come down and join here and the foot traffic would then go right in the back door of the side building. I will also have a set of stairs leading directly off the dock straight back from the back door of the side building.

    What's cool is the dock concrete foam board is still 3/4 inch deep and sits in a cut out. I had to shim the bottom to the correct elevation with the resin foundation piece. But as I carve out the foam up next to the loading dock it will continue to expose the concrete. I just consulted my terrain expert, Alan Hubbard, to get schooled on building varying elevation of the terrain. Got a really cool idea on this and can't wait to get started.

    Ken
  • Simply amazing. Love it.
  • Concrete turned out amazing! Really looks like concrete. Can't wait to see how it all comes together.
  • Thanks Rick, having a ball as usual...working on one of Brett's kits...is as good as it gets!

    Appreciate that Tom, and I was happy with how it turned out. I got a good match to the resin "concrete" foundation.
  • “Well done Ken”. Thanks Ed! The rest....?????
  • Ahh...I see said the blind man. Appreciate your colorful insight Ed, one of a kind you are my friend! Thanks again.
  • Have been working on the Side Building and the roof for Scotia. As I have mentioned in previous builds of mine, I like to encorporate modeling techniques that I haven't tried before. So with Scotia, I decided to try a slightly different paint weathering technique that I have used in the past, albeit sparingly, and never on an entire structure..and that is a checked type paint peel. That is where the paint, usually due to heavy coats, begins to have a multitude of cracks and then the paint starts to peel off the wall.

    I prepared my clapboard wall as previously described. I then applied a very thin coat of clear crackle paint. Once this was dry I applied a coat of white crackle paint. As this paint dries it checks and cracks just like old heavy weathered paint. I then take my #11 blade a pick and scrape off the paint as I wish. More paint removed the more weathered it appears. Here's an almost finished wall utilizing this technique:

    IMG_7441

    I experimented of course before working up the actual walls with the following tips for anyone wishing to try this:

    I firstly applied the white crackle directly to the clapboard and it was a bit hard to get it to flake off the way I wanted. The clear first coat prevents the top coat from sticking as much and the white flaked off nicely. On my first try I applied the white top coat and just let it dry and the leading edge of the clapboard was of course covered in paint and when scrapping this off it fuzzed the wood too much for my liking. So, I then tried painting the white on a small area followed immediately with a swipe of my thumb or finger which removed all the paint from the leading edge leaving paint in the lower parts. Worked perfectly.
  • Here is a better close up...

    IMG_7441a
  • Wow. I will have to try this. That looks fantastic.
  • Thanks Rick. I was happy with the results particularly the small size of the "checking". I was affraid the cracks would be too large to pass for 1:87, so I was pleasantly surprised.
  • Looks good Ken, WOW!!!!!!!!!!!! I tried the crackle paint on one of my projects, but the checking was very small and then it was hard to see.
  • Even when I blow up the photo much larger than the actual HO scale, it still looks fantastic. This is a fine technique which I use aswel. A real treat it is to follow your thread . Thanks Ken, great work.
  • The paint chipping looks great Ken. I’ve seen lots of people use this technique for larger scales but never seen it done convincingly in HO. What brand is the crackle paint?
  • Wow, might be your best work...
  • The crackling in the seams really looks good. I especially like the door frame.
  • admin said:

    Wow, might be your best work...

    I agree with Brett, but all your work is just top notch.
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