Painting Castings - SierraWest Forum

Painting Castings - SierraWest Forum http://www.craftsmankituniversity.com/vanforum/index.php?p=/ Sun, 12 Apr 2026 06:51:20 +0000 Painting Castings - SierraWest Forum en Barrels and Crates http://www.craftsmankituniversity.com/vanforum/index.php?p=/discussion/1625/barrels-and-crates Thu, 03 Jul 2025 12:18:14 +0000 Painting Castings KeithS 1625@/vanforum/index.php?p=/discussions
Thanks, Keith]]> Painting castings - Large misc. variety - Karl. A http://www.craftsmankituniversity.com/vanforum/index.php?p=/discussion/1621/painting-castings-large-misc-variety-karl-a Sat, 31 May 2025 23:49:01 +0000 Painting Castings Karl.A 1621@/vanforum/index.php?p=/discussions I haven't been able to model much over the past couple of years, and not at all over the past 9 months.
Hopefully working on some of these will ease me back into it, just on the painting/weathering side of things to start with and get me going again.
As there are many duplicates I might do some videos of the process for different ones.
So let me know if you want to see anything done in a VIDEO.

sw001

First thing I decided to do was to sort out the castings into groups and store them in trays so I could see what I had.
sw002

Once all the larger castings were pulled out and organised this is what was left in the boxes.
These smaller items were then separated and put into trays also.
sw006

Now it is time to start working through the trays and painting these beauties.
]]> Rust Tuorial http://www.craftsmankituniversity.com/vanforum/index.php?p=/discussion/1613/rust-tuorial Sat, 22 Mar 2025 17:56:33 +0000 Painting Castings Joel 1613@/vanforum/index.php?p=/discussions
First a coat of flat black paint.

Then I use 70822 - Vallejo Model Color German Camo Black Brown and water it down a bit and slop on a coat. usually I just dip the soft brush in the paint then dip the tip[ into clean water and brush it on. I have tried many "chipping" colours in the past but this by far is the best as an undercoat for chipped paint on metal or for this effect.

I let this dry for at least 10 minutes.
Now onto the magic. I use Water Mixable oil paint Burnt Umber which is a nice dark brown.

I wear gloves at this point to avoid some mess and more importantly fingerprints
Just a small amt works for multiple casting. I use a small 1-0 or 2-0 brush. An old one is best - this one cost 50 cents when it was new two years ago. I dab on the oil paint (not brushed just dabbed on corners and seams and random spots) I typically cover 5-10% of the surface, sometimes less.

Now I pick up my special tool for applying chalk. The worst brush I can find in my collection:

I dip this in various shades of chalk scrapings and blot it all over the surface. I typically start with the darker shades and then only a spot or two of each of the lighter shades.

My go to dark shades are409.5 411.5 and my fave is 370.3
Light shades are 411.7 and 231.5

Now the hardest part of this technique - you have to leave these to dry for a few days before touching them. i usually leave them for a week to make sure. This is really annoying when I rust up some styrene strips and find I need an extra to complete a model (see my Sand Car build) but I like the effect and have enough projects on the go.

Most of the time I just dust off the excess chalk after the oil paint dries. Some times I dust on a bit of dullcote for a mottled effect. If I decide to do this I place the casting on the ground and then keeping the spray can around 6' (yes that's six feet) above the casting I spray for a 1 second burst and then wait for the dullcoat to settle on the casting. I repeat 3-4 times per side until I get the effect I want. If you spray it directly on the casting it dissolves the chalk and washes most of the effect away.
]]> Adding Lighting Effects to Brett's Amazing "Shop Heater" Detail Part... Karl. A http://www.craftsmankituniversity.com/vanforum/index.php?p=/discussion/1403/adding-lighting-effects-to-bretts-amazing-shop-heater-detail-part-karl-a Sun, 04 Sep 2022 02:01:27 +0000 Painting Castings Karl.A 1403@/vanforum/index.php?p=/discussions

Karl, how did you run and hide the wires for the LEDs?

Karl..... If you get a spare moment sometime, I would love to see the pictures of how you ran it out the stack and into the rafters.

Here are the modifications I made to Brett's incredible detail part in order to install the lighting effects. Lots of pics so I dont have to type too much through the 'step by step' process.
This can obviously be used in many other situations, I've used the same method to light up the SWSM boilers, a trash can and 55 drum for burn barrels.
I'm sure there will be more uses and ideas to follow as they come to me and the incredible SWSM product line expands and grows.

Part one :- Preparing the amazing 3D printed parts to accept the electronics.

Shown are all the parts needed to get started, the 3D printed parts and a cheap fake flicker candle.

001

Step one, remove the bulb/battery base from the holder, there are several versions but they are all essentially the same.

002

Use some nippers and remove the bulb from the base, remember which wire goes where,

I then used my dremel flex attachment to drill out the BACK of the heater, slightly bigger than the bulb so that it could be accepted easily with a little extra room for the future new wires.

(WEAR A MASK WHEN DRILLING OR SANDING RESIN.)

003

I then prepared the parts for priming, as the heater frame is really fragile, I just used regular scotch double sided tape to hold it on the stick instead of my regular carpet tape. I've been using this scotch tape a lot for the fragile 3D prints lately, it holds them 'just' well enough for spray priming and you don't damage the VERY delicate parts as you remove them from the stick.

The trick I use to spray tubes is to insert a toothpick or BBQ skewer 'handle' into the tube so that I can spray it entirely, end to end.

004

For black primer I use the $1.49 rattle cans from HomeDepot.

005

Here's how they came out after a light, even spray.

006

Next steps to follow. Working on the electronics...
]]> Easy (and I mean easy) chipping paint effect for 3D Printed Castings http://www.craftsmankituniversity.com/vanforum/index.php?p=/discussion/1354/easy-and-i-mean-easy-chipping-paint-effect-for-3d-printed-castings Mon, 17 Jan 2022 17:46:03 +0000 Painting Castings admin 1354@/vanforum/index.php?p=/discussions
wedge01

This works great anytime you want chipped paint effects for oil drums, gas bottles, trash cans, etc...

wedge03

Paint your casting using the same techniques and water based paint as you would my traditional hand poured resin castings then immediately dunk the entire casting in isopropyl alcohol (ipa). You can leave it in the ipa varying lengths of time depending on the desired effect and brand of paint. (This will be demonstrated in the video btw.) Try "sloshing" it around too, some neat results will occur. Experiment to see the different effects you can achieve. Super easy!

wedge05

Pull the casting out and using a cosmetic foam wedge, gently roll the casting against the wedge or tap/blot the wedge against the wet paint. This is lots of fun and simple. Allow to dry then chalk weather just like the hand poured resin. Try layering the paint and chipping each layer allowing the layers to dry each time. Use different colors for really neat effects.

wedge04

The wedges are easy to find and inexpensive. They can be reused many times. I believe I purchased this bag at target for like $5 a few years ago.

Have fun and enjoy!]]> Making Ice Cubes (and clear bottles) HO & O Scale. Karl. A http://www.craftsmankituniversity.com/vanforum/index.php?p=/discussion/1397/making-ice-cubes-and-clear-bottles-ho-o-scale-karl-a Wed, 24 Aug 2022 01:39:47 +0000 Painting Castings Karl.A 1397@/vanforum/index.php?p=/discussions

What did you use for ice.....

That’s real ice, right?

leave it to me to address the elephant in the room. what did you use for the ice? salt?

Karl.
Can you share a tutorial on making ice cubes? Yours are really very "cool".
Later, Dave S. Tucson, AZ

Here is how I modelled the ice, in HO and O scale, both slightly different, but the same principal.

I'm really big on understanding why a technique works, and, learning how it works, that way I can adapt it if needed, or use what I've learned somewhere else. That's why I always say, follow the manual, learn the techniques, understand the basics, master the modeling.

Brett's manuals and techniques are the absolute best for this. Follow them and you will get outstanding results and then, once mastered, you can learn how to make the techniques your own.

First a little bit of back ground...

I guess this 'concept' came from a product I saw on TV 10 or 15 years ago for repairing scratches on eye glasses, you wipe the product on, it fills in the scratches and the lenses are good and clear again.
A similar recent product for car body minor swirly scratch repair is using a ceramic wipe on coating, this has the same effect. It fills in the small scratches and gives you a smooth, glossy, unblemished, clear finish.

So, where does this lead us? It showed me that a rough surface on a clear product refracts light and gives a 'frosty' appearance, but, this can be eliminated by smoothing out that rough surface with a clear, thin, glossy top coat to fill in the imperfections.

In addition, my method for using flour for mortar on brick work also has a contribution to the 'ice' technique. Learning that the fine dust on the brick face was dissolved and eliminated by a clearcoat was a factor in this method.

So, with that said, lets make some "ice" ...]]> Sizing, Printing Labels to Details (or signs). Karl.A http://www.craftsmankituniversity.com/vanforum/index.php?p=/discussion/1336/sizing-printing-labels-to-details-or-signs-karl-a Tue, 30 Nov 2021 01:41:53 +0000 Painting Castings Karl.A 1336@/vanforum/index.php?p=/discussions
001

I use a low grade 7 year old inkjet printer that cost 49.99 at the time and Photoshop 5.5 from 1998 or so that was free, so, no special equipment is required. Any standard printer and image software should work fine.

I'll do a basic overview shortly and then get into more detail through out this week.
]]> Blacken metal castings: faster, better results http://www.craftsmankituniversity.com/vanforum/index.php?p=/discussion/703/blacken-metal-castings-faster-better-results Wed, 20 Apr 2016 13:47:04 +0000 Painting Castings Bill 703@/vanforum/index.php?p=/discussions

It seemed to me that the white spots were the result of a "surface tension" issue and the chemical was prevented from coming into contact with the metal--much like water & white glue balling up and not penetrating into ground cover without a wetting agent.

So (after testing my theory on a few individual castings) here's what I did.

I took a big batch of casting and dropped them into plain rubbing alcohol:

Drained off the alcohol and strained the parts with a paper towel:

Dumped the castings directly into the blackening solution (Jax Pewter Black), swirled them around for 10 or 20 seconds, drained & strained, then got them immediately into a rinse of clean water:

Finally, strained the castings out of the water and spread them out on a paper towel to dry:

That's it!
In the past I would toss 4 or 5 castings into the blackening solution, scrub them with an old brush, pluck 'em out and rinse. Then check for white spots...re-dunk, scrub, rinse, etc... It'd take me an hour!!
Using an alcohol bath, it took me a total of 2 minutes to do almost the entire box of castings. All the pieces still require buffing and polishing, but the pre-soak in alcohol speeds up the process considerably. No scrubbing, no re-blackening, and none of those annoying white spots--not even in the teeth of small gears or the crevices of the most intricate pieces:

]]> Some Thoughts on Paint Colors of Early Machinery in America. http://www.craftsmankituniversity.com/vanforum/index.php?p=/discussion/969/some-thoughts-on-paint-colors-of-early-machinery-in-america Mon, 13 Aug 2018 22:16:19 +0000 Painting Castings EricMG 969@/vanforum/index.php?p=/discussions
Two cool bits of trivia: Henry Ford had no obsession with black paint, it was simply the only practical cost-effective paint at that time, but by 1925 he could've opened his mind to brighter color, if people wanted to pay for it. This color chart from 1925 gives us an idea. Before 1925, and the discoveries of new car paint, these colors would've been very expensive and they would've yellowed and faded. Thus deep reds and yellows made sense, since the discoloration would not ruin the appearance of the body. The chart:

[The chart insists on appearing below last]

The other cool bit of trivia is early metallic paint was made from fish scales. It took sometimes 40k fish to paint one car. Very expensive, very beautiful, not very permanent. In 1951 my father (Marshall S. Green) ordered a 356 Porsche directly from Ferry Porsche in Stuttgart. His color: Fish Silver Grey! But my dad wouldn't call it that because he didn't like the word fish in there. Funny! I doubt he knew why it was called that. He called it: "Silver Blue Graw." This from memory since my father died in 1982.

IMG_5842-2

So, I think some of this information might lead to knowing which colors we might try on the AMAZING machinery castings from Brett. Here are some visual possibilities for ideas, although I'm not sure of the era validity of any of them. PLEASE chime in and help out. I can tell I might have to build saw mill machines without a saw mill. I've already ordered some of the steam engine models. I blame Karl A. 100% as a demonic enabler! Do not put out rare single-malts in front of a Scotsman alcoholic. HE WILL DRINK THEM ALL!

Cheers, lads.

b693992a953e2444c927ae08331239f1

]]> SWSM CHB New Detail Castings http://www.craftsmankituniversity.com/vanforum/index.php?p=/discussion/1027/swsm-chb-new-detail-castings Sat, 19 Jan 2019 22:32:08 +0000 Painting Castings Dave_S 1027@/vanforum/index.php?p=/discussions
I have on hand some Jax Pewter Black as well as some RioGrande Midas Pewter Oxidizer. I have tried both of these products in the past with very different results to the pewter castings I was using. I thought that for this posting I would show the results of three experiments and post the results.

Process:
Step one for all the parts was to wash them with 99% isopropyl alcohol to prepare them for blackening/oxidizing
Step two for all the details was to carefully, watchfully dip them in the blackening agents described below to make certain
they didn't overcook.

Results: (L to R) Posted Below
#1: SWSM/CHB Original castings (Screw Jack, Axe, Peavy)
#2: SWSM/CHB Pewter castings dipped in Jax
#3: SWSM/CHB Pewter castings dipped in Midas Pewter Oxidizer
#4: SWSM/CHB Pewter castings dipped in Jax, allowed to dry overnight, then dipped in Midas Oxidizer.

SWSM CHB Pewter Castings & Jax r.1

SWSM CHB Pewter Castings & RG Midas Oxidezer r.1

Later, Dave S. Tucson, AZ
]]> Reaper Miniatures paints - metalics http://www.craftsmankituniversity.com/vanforum/index.php?p=/discussion/1005/reaper-miniatures-paints-metalics Sun, 09 Dec 2018 16:46:55 +0000 Painting Castings prsdgt65 1005@/vanforum/index.php?p=/discussions
Has anyone experienced issues with the Reaper Miniatures paints in the metallic paints? I am speaking about the blackened steel, tarnished steel, etc. They seem to dry up in the bottle and what I have is a big blob of rubbery mess. The stuff under it is good but this seems to keep happening. Anyone else have this issue?

Frank]]> Painting figures http://www.craftsmankituniversity.com/vanforum/index.php?p=/discussion/1002/painting-figures Fri, 23 Nov 2018 15:54:10 +0000 Painting Castings brownbr 1002@/vanforum/index.php?p=/discussions
I use a technique that I picked up on one of the military modeler forums to paint my figures. They tend to blend things together with an airbrush at the end which I do not have so all painting is done with a brush.

Start by preparing the figure. Remove as much flash as possible and mount (I use toothpicks). Spray paint black. Dark primer makes it easier to see highlights on the casting and will cause some shadowing in the crevices which we want.

This casting has been primed and the face has been given 2 washes of base color...I almost always use a wash instead of full-strength paint to reduce brush stroke marks on the casting. Unless otherwise specified all colors are Model Color. This wash is 1:1 Cork Brown and airbrush thinner. The arms have been left off for now. They will be attached once the overalls are done. I plan on blue denim overalls with a light gray shirt on this guy.

Please excuse in advance my poor photography skills. I can never get a very high resolution close up.

]]> Metal Castings http://www.craftsmankituniversity.com/vanforum/index.php?p=/discussion/641/metal-castings Sat, 05 Dec 2015 08:33:01 +0000 Painting Castings drjohn 641@/vanforum/index.php?p=/discussions Gray Palette for Metal and Resin Wood http://www.craftsmankituniversity.com/vanforum/index.php?p=/discussion/832/gray-palette-for-metal-and-resin-wood Fri, 26 May 2017 06:14:36 +0000 Painting Castings MarkG 832@/vanforum/index.php?p=/discussions I would like to achieve a gray patina to some wood surfaces in metal and resin castings. My thoughts are to start with a base coat of white and then add black A/I wash until I get an appropriate shade. Is this the right way or is there an 'expert' way that I've not yet been aware of?
Thanks in advance for your help and advice.
Mark]]> New videos on painting castings http://www.craftsmankituniversity.com/vanforum/index.php?p=/discussion/657/new-videos-on-painting-castings Sat, 06 Feb 2016 07:50:31 +0000 Painting Castings Alan_H 657@/vanforum/index.php?p=/discussions Vallejo? http://www.craftsmankituniversity.com/vanforum/index.php?p=/discussion/650/vallejo Sat, 16 Jan 2016 08:03:06 +0000 Painting Castings Alan_H 650@/vanforum/index.php?p=/discussions Comparisons of paints for the base coat for wooden details http://www.craftsmankituniversity.com/vanforum/index.php?p=/discussion/392/comparisons-of-paints-for-the-base-coat-for-wooden-details Wed, 23 Jul 2014 18:26:53 +0000 Painting Castings Ojaste 392@/vanforum/index.php?p=/discussions
Well the times have changed and modern paints have improved by leaps and bounds. The current best practice is to use rattle can spray paint to put on the base/primer coat for castings. The pigments and spray nozzles are so good that they are beginning to displace the airbrush. I see that people are replacing PollyS and Floquil Earth with a Krylon camouflage paint for wooden objects. The most often recommended "Camo" paint to replace Earth paint is Camo Khaki. So I wanting to keep up with the times, I when out and bought a can and sprayed some resin castings. When the paint dried the base coat looked green and nothing like the old Earth colour. I double checked the can to see if I picked up the wrong can, but it was the right can.

Hmm, when I look at the photographs of castings being painted, the base colour didn't look anything like the old colour "Earth". This got me thinking. Did Krylon make a "Earth" colour and was it available in Canada. So I went to the big box stores to see if could find it on the shelves, but no one stocked it or planned to. I looked on Krylon Web site and it is NOT available in Canada. Period. What to do?

I tried to use the Khaki, but things did not look right. So during a recent trip to Cleveland, NRMA Train Show, I stopped by a Walmart and picked up a few cans of Camo Sand. When I got home I tried it and it looked much more like Earth. Yippie. But why do people say to use Khaki?

So the scientist/photographer in me said "... why don't you over analysis the question..?" I resided the temptation for a few hours and could not help myself. (I think I need help!) So here is a few bits of data and pictures to show what I meant.

So I decided to test some sample paints to compare them and to find out which ones were closest to Earth colour. In this picture you can see the 6 paints I tested. From left to right; Tamiya Wooden Deck Tan, PollyS Earth, Flquil Earth,a Custom Mix from Lowes, Camo Sand and Camo Khaki. The paints were applied to a White art board. The solvent based ones (tamiya and Floquil) had to have two coats to get uniform colours. The rest it just took one coat.

I then let the paint dry and went outside with a Macbeth colour chart and took a photograph in a clouded sky around 3:00 PM. I then imported it into Photoshop Lightroom and colour calibrated the white balance of the image to make sure the colours were true.

I then measured the average RGB and CYMK values for each colour swatch to ensure I over-analysed the paint.

Things to note here,

- White is very white proving the white balance worked
- Both Earths and Lowes are very similar
- Camo Sand CMYK is close to the Earths
- Camo Khaki CMYK is very different

So Camo Sand is a good replacement for PollyS and Floquil Earth and Camo Khaki is not. Camo Khaki is closer to the colour of wet dirt.

Before you crucify me; I'm not saying don't use Camo Khaki for a base coat for wood, just know that it will shift your colour palette and accommodate for that shift. For me, I will use Camo Sand on wooden objects until a best method comes along and I am willing to change. One thing I did notice with Camo Sand is that it does go on rather think, no matter how far away I spray from. I had to use compressed air to get the wet paint out of the fine cracks to see the fine details. Maybe more practice will help. (BTW: I like the way the Tamiya paint applies and I don't mind it being a bit thin.)

Marty]]> Ever considered a wet palette http://www.craftsmankituniversity.com/vanforum/index.php?p=/discussion/646/ever-considered-a-wet-palette Wed, 23 Dec 2015 07:38:55 +0000 Painting Castings Ojaste 646@/vanforum/index.php?p=/discussions

]]> Rejuvenating old PolyS paint http://www.craftsmankituniversity.com/vanforum/index.php?p=/discussion/633/rejuvenating-old-polys-paint Tue, 03 Nov 2015 09:44:45 +0000 Painting Castings Ojaste 633@/vanforum/index.php?p=/discussions

I hope you enjoy it.]]> Question: finishing pulleys and flywheels http://www.craftsmankituniversity.com/vanforum/index.php?p=/discussion/418/question-finishing-pulleys-and-flywheels Sun, 14 Sep 2014 09:37:54 +0000 Painting Castings James 418@/vanforum/index.php?p=/discussions #318, with two flywheels- one might be buffed/ bright for the one carrying the drive belt, and the other dusty etc. This seems to be what Mr. Doan did in the photo of the engine in the Machine Shop instructions (and on the SW website).

It would be quite nerdly, but probably prudent, to make sure the rotational speed of the line shaft (if that's what the machine is powering) is "correct". There's some discussion on this in the instructions. If the line shaft is to run at a couple hundred RPM for a small machine shop, and the engine is running at a couple hundred RPM, then the flywheel and the drive wheel should be about the same size. This is what is implied in the instructions in the diagram on page 31 of the Machine Shop kit. So one could chose which flywheel to power the line and buff the trim of this one, and leave the other one "dusty" (i.e. no belt). I'm modelling the Sierra RR Machine Shop more or less which in real life is driven by an electric motor which has a small pulley transferring rotational sped to a very large wheel on the line shaft- but I want to "power" the shop by the #318 kit.

Any thoughts on all this welcome. Here's a picture of one of the flywheels unfinished:

]]> Painting those Details. The Basics. (Karl. A) http://www.craftsmankituniversity.com/vanforum/index.php?p=/discussion/343/painting-those-details-the-basics-karl-a Tue, 28 Jan 2014 09:37:03 +0000 Painting Castings Karl.A 343@/vanforum/index.php?p=/discussions The details are beautifully and cleanly cast, with continually new and original details being mastered for each new kit release.

As with every stage of building a SierraWest kit the process of working with the many detail castings is explained thoroughly in the manual. Follow and master those instructions and you will be very happy with the results.

In this thread I am going to go over the basics of painting the castings with the simple methods that yield excellent results. Once these basics are mastered they can be used as a base for more involved techniques or developing your own methods.
Mastering the basics will give a good understanding of how things interact.

I never said that I was the tidiest person, but this shows the workspace....
everything pretty close to hand, a selection of the most used paints, brushes, foam bases for holding the castings, an old rag to dry them on, dish of water to clean brushes ( It is easy to knock over a cup of dirty, paint coloured water, thereby ruining a perfectly finished structure wall that you had carefully put to one side while painting details. It is much harder to knock over a dish. Trust me, I know !). And other various modeling 'stuff' .

The benefit of working on glass is that you can mix the paints and chalks right where you are working, going in and out of each as you need them. It's also really quick to clean up after a session with a single edge blade. Glass is also perfectly flat and can aid in ensuring something is level, tanks/barrels standing up straight etc... If not a full glass table top then a piece of glass on the bench is most beneficial, you wont go back.

A small selection of HO castings to work on, I tried to get a good representative variety.

One of the most important things for me is to be able to hold the part I am working on securely and steadily.
To this end I like to use double sided tape and either popsicle sticks or coffee sticks to hold the details as I work on them. Easy to work around all sides of the casting and no fingerprints in the finish.

For barrels and drums I like to be able to twist them as I work on them so a hole is drilled in the bottom and a toothpick inserted. Certainly not a new idea and not mine, but, it does work great.
Snip off the point of the tooth pick before inserting it in the casting, this way you wont need to drill so deep which is critical on some items. You want a nice tight fit, the pick will 'squeek' as it grips the casting when you push it in.

Ready for paint....

For base coats I prime with rattle can paint. Anything that represents wood I spray with Rustoleum Camoflage "Khaki" a light tan colour almost identical to floquil earth (except in price).
Anything that represents metal gets sprayed flat black, I use either the Wal-Mart or Home Depot in store 99c cans, they contain a fine pigment that will not obliterate the fine details.

When spraying move the can side to side across the casting, about 6-8 inches from the casting, turn the casting after each pass, you want even, light coverage.

Let these dry well and then it's time for the fun stuff......

Karl.A]]> Advanced Painting and Weathering of Details with Kevin O'Neill. http://www.craftsmankituniversity.com/vanforum/index.php?p=/discussion/344/advanced-painting-and-weathering-of-details-with-kevin-oneill Tue, 28 Jan 2014 09:54:36 +0000 Painting Castings Karl.A 344@/vanforum/index.php?p=/discussions in the hobby was working on detail parts. He loved to spend hours on one simple casting
turning each one into something great.

Before Kevin passed he had started a thread explaining some of his work and the methods
he used. Unfortunately he never finished the thread but the information that he did share
has been moved here for us all to enjoy and learn from.

The following posts are directly copied from Kevin's thread in his own words.]]> Less is more....... http://www.craftsmankituniversity.com/vanforum/index.php?p=/discussion/228/less-is-more Sat, 06 Oct 2012 15:56:11 +0000 Painting Castings Karl.A 228@/vanforum/index.php?p=/discussions

Karl.A]]> en