I would like to thank Robert Burns for his motivation to get this thread to print. Thanks Bob.
Disclaimer: Uh, oh...the fine print already!...The following information is NOT how to do things...but how I do things. We all have our own styles of modeling based on our techniques, materials, skill level, etc. Example of this is how we can see a completed model and it becomes obvious who the modeler behind the model is! This is not necessarily a bad thing as long as we are happy with the results. However, should we find ourselves less than thrilled with the outcome, seeking additional resources comes into play. No matter your level of modeling we all can improve and tweak our processes. This is what I hope to accomplish here, to provide an additional resource. If I mention 25 "things" and someone comes away with one that helps them out...mission accomplished! On with the dirt on dirt...
Comments
With most any project the most important step is in the preparation. I use the green 3/4 inch dense foam board epoxied to 3/4 inch particle board (MDF I think it's called?). The MDF is more resistant to warping than plywood. The 3/4 inch foam board provides an ideal surface for scene construction as you can vary the topography easily by cutting, sanding, poking holes, etc. and is paintable and does not absorb moisture.
If you remember one thing regarding scene construction and scenic work it would be...
LAYERING and TEXTURE...well two things I guess! This concept cannot be over emphasized. The creation of layering in your scene construction and the use of multiple textures is what creates realism. Moving on...after much pondering over the previous.
My first step is to prepare the diorama base for the first, and initial, layer of "dirt". I use real dirt exclusively. Most would agree the only thing that looks most like dirt is dirt! Somewhat intuitive but worth mentioning. There are other products in use, and modelers have used it to good effect, but I stick with what I like and that's good ole mother earth. Since I have so much verbiage here I now proceed with steps...
Step 1.
The first dirt layer I apply is a very fine layer that has been sieved to a very fine particle size, almost powdery. This base layer is the first in a series to build the layer effect. It also serves as a good base for pathways and road surfaces...more on that latter.
So I have my supply of sieved, first layer, dirt.
Step 2.
I then paint my diorama base with a flat latex paint, what color?...uhh...the color of dirt!
The first layer of dirt can be applied in one of two ways: Firstly, it can be applied directly over the wet paint. Secondly, it can be applied over the foam base after the paint has dried by applying a layer of diluted white glue with an old paint brush. I tend to use the latter as I think the dirt adheres a bit better with the glue. Once the paint/glue is dry the excess dirt can be removed. Now it gets interesting...Step 3 coming up...
A shout out to Brett here regarding this thread. Brett addresses the issue of layering and texture most eloquently in his build manuals however, his main focus is on the structure build of his kits and the many beautiful scenes created by the plethora of castings and details provided in the kits.. It would be impractical to try and comprehensively address the many scenic techniques and applications. There are as many methods as there are modelers! The SWSM Manuals have all the necessary ingredients to create a beautiful diorama by following the advise and methods contained therein. Once again, this is just how I do it...
I'm ready to learn a few new things and add them to my techniques.
Thanks for sharing your skills with us all.
Thanks for the encouragement Karl. You have paved the way for this thread and I remember how I struggled to get roads to look right until pouring over your techniques and how you and Brett preached about layering and texture.
Step 3.
The area I'm starting with is the north end of Scotia. Don't be surprised that in an earlier post I may have called it the east side!...Lol.
Prior to knowing I was going to do this thread, I had begun the outside scenic work. Step 1 has been done as well as Step 2. In this scene I roughed in a dilapidated stairway to match the old bricked up doorway. I also spread my second application of ground work or aggregate. This is the beginning of the layering process. You will notice that right up against the foundation and out about an inch the material is more coarse then in the foreground. There is also a hint of a path from concrete steps out to the side drive.
Here is an expanded view of the scene we will be working on. The darker foreground area will be enclosed in a chain link fence as per Brett's manual albeit expanded a bit. I now have a life time supply of wedding tulle! The reason for the darker area is this will be the kerosene and fuel oil depot of sorts...muddy and stained...that's right...Grungy! Wheel ruts were done when the "ground" was still wet.
Back to the task at hand...the Step 3. aggregate...The material I use for this step has made a huge difference in my scenic work. Sometimes we stumble across a product or technique that seems to just work for us. This stuff is like that. Here's how it went...
I struggled early on with getting the right aggregate to use for my second layering for the ground level. I tried coarser dirt, organic stuff, nothing spread well and looked right to me. Always remember, not everything prototypical looks good in 1:87!
Regressing a bit....I have a well used gravel driveway with a parking area at my cabin here in Ohio. The parking area has the smaller sized coarse gravel...say jellybean size. One day I was looking for a dropped nail while working on a project so my nose was right down at the ground level. While looking for the nail I notice the material between the coarse gravel was all ground up fine material of all sorts of stuff. I made a note and next trip brought my sieves. I sieved the material when it was nice and hot and dry. The fine material was simply wonderful! a natural mixture of minute rock grains, wood, leaves, etc...and little if any actual dirt. This stuff spreads great and has a very natural color and look and best of all varying texture. (see below)
Note the somewhat uniform color tones but varying textures and materials.
Recognizing a good thing when I see it...I sieved a large quantity and will have a life time supply by the looks of it!
So back to the scene. The material was spread along the foundation and sprinkled less as I came towards the drive. I spread a little on the drive, mainly in the middle and edges. Once this looked good, except for the driveway, path, and road (in background) I held a piece of paper up to the building and spritzed on some alcohol to break surface tension and then applied my white glue and water mix as standard. I applied mine by hand with a dropper...ie better control...more later
The next thing I do after the second layer of ground work is done is begin the scene composition. I like to scenic small areas at a time keeping in mind the overall concept of the diorama. In my example here, the north side of Scotia, is a little used area with an old blocked up doorway, dilapidated stairs, and an accumulation of basic junk.
This type of scene composition can be difficult to get started on. However, once you get in the grove of laying it all out things move quite quickly. I like to take pictures and research the web for junk scenes or any pictorial example pertaining to what I'm trying to achieve. Once I have in mind what I want to do, I begin to lay out the details in the rough positions as they will/may occur in the final scene work. Nothing is finished, nothing is glued down, just staged in a rough layout. I can change things around at will until I'm reasonably happy and then...
I take a few pictures. The main reason for the pictures is to allow me to put things back where they were after the details are prepared. Also, the pictures are on my phone and I can hash around the layout anywhere and make note on any changes to make once I'm back in front of the build.
Here is the picture I took of the North side of Scotia I have been working on. All is tentative but I'm beginning to get a feel that this is close to what I want. A few tweaks and details here and there to be added/changed. Note the layering of details and the use of many different details with colors and textures of a wide variety. Haphazard but things should still make sense.
Open barrel with a piece of corrugated on top, looks fine but for interest I added a couple of bricks and then put a pile of old bricks by the old stairs to tie in the concept. Also notice how some details are parallel to the building and some perpendicular. This is an important concept and adds visual interest. An old barrel laying on its side is a nice touch but putting a couple pieces of old wood of different size and color inside sticking out and the barrel laying partially on an old piece of corrugated adds even more.
So this is how I go about placing what I call hard details. As I'm planting the prepared hard details with glue I'm also working in the soft details, which are the various bushes, weeds, grasses, sedges, etc, also in layering fashion. Next up will be the placement and work on the soft details...more later...Ken
There goes a lot of time in just making the composition before I glue anything down.
It just has to feel and look right.
That being said, thanks for presenting this subject .
Rick
Here's where we left off. The north side of Scotia with the hard details staged to get a feel for the scene I'm looking for. This will be an older grown over area of discarded junk. I then set about detailing all these items in addition to adding the soft details of weeds, bushes, ground cover, etc..
Here is the nearly finished scene. Once again, layering the details and adding different textures but keeping in a fairly restricted general theme. The stark stone wall was softened with some climbing ivy. The barrel on the left was blended by having a bush placed behind and to the left so it didn't appear to stand out. Same with the right edge of the broken stairs. This softens the hard lines and serves to blend it into the scene. Notice the difference between that barrel and the one beside the stairs...the one beside the stairs sticks out more and draws the eye to the stairs which will be more a focal point of the structure and highlights the traffic flow.
Close up of corner details. Note the crushed barrel with a piece of wood and debris sticking out to add interest. Pipe coming down the side of the building is a down spout. Right in front I pushed down the foam base to form a depression where the water would have eroded the ground a bit. A few large rocks and some water effects will complete the scene.
Next I will work on the front of Scotia with mostly hard details...more later...Ken
Rick
Thanks Ed, still feel bad taking so long but once my shop is done things will be a little less hectic!
Thanks Muddy, photos of actual clutter scenes is a great way to build a diorama.
Hi Phil, thanks for checking in.
You bet Tom, thanks for your thoughts here.
Bryan, it's a plastic barrel so I just squished it with my fingers.
Thanks Kev, and glad you're not bored yet!
Hey Patrick, appreciate that and for taking the time to check in.
Will do Tom, just got back from submitting my countertop measurements to the outfit that does that stuff. I will be utilizing a 9' x 13' room. Installed the short pile office style carpeting myself. Did some re-wiring to bring outlets up above the countertop...no hands and knees to plug stuff in! Re-purposed some cabinetry from another garage workshop. My space will not be much different than most other modeling workshops save for a few nifty things. As an example...when I model, build walls, weather wood, etc. I like to be sitting at my bench on stools. I, for some reason, don't like to sit in a conventional chair to do my work. I prefer a stool without wheels that is a bit higher than a typical office chair. My current shop countertop is at 36 inches. I can sit on my stool, lean against it, or stand up to work...I like that.
Once I begin the diorama base, I like to stand up at a high countertop to work on it. That way I can freely move around, go get details, stand back and study it, etc...without having to get up and down from a chair. So...my main workbench at 36" high will be the full 13 feet wall-to-wall. It will have two separate workstations with a stool at each. Directly behind one workstation against the opposing wall will be a countertop and cabinet unit that I have modified to sit 40 inches high and 3 feet wide. This is where the current project diorama will sit allowing me to work on it standing up. There will be several other nifty additions as well....Sorry you mentioned my workshop?...Lol.